Metro Manila moves at breakneck pace for foodies (traffic is another story entirely). New tasting menus pop up seemingly daily on social media feeds, chefs are collaborating on four-hands dinners left and right, and there's always a credit card promo or happy hour to catch. Competition is fierce, with brands battling it out on Instagram to entice diners with slick promos or creative reels.

At the center of it all, in Ortigas — arguably the true midpoint of Metro Manila, depending on which Facebook users you ask — lies Marco Polo Ortigas Manila's Lung Hin, an award-winning Cantonese restaurant that touts authenticity above all else. Dishes are nurtured from fresh ingredients to final plating by Hong Kong cooks, led by Chef Raymond Yeung, a Guangdong native whose roots run deep in Cantonese culinary tradition. With so few establishments offering true Cantonese fine dining in the Philippines — and only one in the area helmed by a native Cantonese chef — Lung Hin stands as a rare gem in Manila’s culinary landscape.

Marco Polo's Director of Food and Beverage Michele Cantini first came to the Philippines in 1995 to surf in La Union and Siargao. He's also toured Taiwan by motorcycle solo and raced rally cars. He brings a meticulous, thrill-seeker's mindset to his role, as well as intimate knowledge of Cantonese cuisine, having worked in Guangdong for years.

When asked what sets Lung Hin apart from others, Cantini didn’t hesitate.

“Our strong point is our chef — a true Cantonese chef, born and raised in the tradition. The food concept, the focus on quality, it’s in his DNA. That’s what really distinguishes us from the competition.”

“Cantonese cuisine goes back over 2,000 years. It's a deep and rich tradition covering not just Guangdong, but also Hong Kong and Macau,” Cantini explained. “What sets it apart is its focus on freshness and balance. You get light seasoning — soy sauce, ginger, maybe oyster sauce — that lets the natural flavors shine.”

That culinary pedigree is reflected in Lung Hin’s menu — an exhaustive catalog of authentic Cantonese dishes including a wide range of dim sum, baked and deep-fried specialties, and Hong Kong-style barbecue. It covers not only beloved staples like roasted goose, char siu, steamed fish, Cantonese roast duck, and beef chow fun, but also less familiar items that showcase the cuisine’s breadth beyond the classics.

And how was the food? True to Cantini’s words, the items I tried embodied the cuisine's commitment to delivering fresh, mildly seasoned fare that highlights perfectly cooked proteins. The firm, sweet shrimp featured in the deep-fried spring roll, braised hot and sour soup, and steamed shrimp dumplings were a testament to that. Shrimp can be tough and chewy when even slightly overcooked, so it was impressive how consistently different items delivered the perfect bite.

The seafood was a highlight, but so were the deep-fried spare ribs with plum sauce. When you hear characteristics such as lightly or mildly seasoned, you might worry about a bland end product. The pork delivered a bite that was savory and just sweet enough, complemented by the crispy, smoky coating. It's a must-eat alongside their fried rice that exudes wok hei. Likewise, the curry successfully juggled crunchy vegetables, tender slivers of beef, and a sauce that was spice-laden and heady without needing to be salty.

Finally, in case you thought that all Cantonese food was mild, I have found that exceptions to the rules make for exciting moments when it comes to food. The braised chicken with tofu and salted fish packed a briny, even slightly funky punch (fermented soybean paste, maybe?). It was the perfect foil to a light but satisfying spread.

The ambiance at Lung Hin completes the experience. With interiors clad in dark wood, red, and gold, the space feels both luxurious and grounded in tradition. Elegant private rooms and sweeping city views from the 44th floor create a fitting backdrop for cuisine that is as refined as it is comforting.

And while hotel dining may be daunting, especially to younger professionals, Cantini assures diners that there's something for everyone at Lung Hin.

"We offer not only an amazing and varied Cantonese menu, but also promotions that make it easier for first-timers or people looking for lunch before going back to the office to try it out. Even those who aren’t familiar with the cuisine will find something to love. We welcome everyone."

So, we have the Cantonese connection in the form of a one-of-a-kind chef, an impressive array of offerings, and top-notch ambience — but what ties the room together? The F&B director, carrying with him his decades of experience, highlights the Filipino touch.

"What really sets this place apart is the heart of the Filipino. It’s something truly special — like nothing else in the world. It's what keeps visitors to the Philippines coming back."