Fashioning the fan


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Aranaz ‘Pamaypay’ clutch, a brown handwoven leather ‘pamaypay’ featuring a small gold-toned logo plaque.
The traditional woven fan also comes in black and brown.
In a muted gold hue.
What happens when a nostalgic symbol of Filipino provincial life is reimagined for the global stage? For designer Amina Aranaz, the answer lies in the striking silhouette of the pamaypay — the traditional woven fan — transformed into a luxurious, handwoven leather clutch. Balancing feminine flirtatiousness with structural innovation, this standout piece from the Balay collection swaps conventional indigenous fibers for unexpected leather, bridging deep-rooted heritage with modern, international style.
In this exclusive Q&A, Aranaz takes us behind the month-long production process, explores the delicate dance between cultural pride and wearable art, and redefines the spirit of the modern, global Maria Clara.
NNN: How did you come up with such a brilliant idea? What’s its the origin?
Amina Aranaz: I loved the idea and silhouette of a woven fan as an accessory. I find it feminine and flirty. So I thought of a way of transforming and disguising it into a functional clutch.
What’s the material made of? Where is it sourced? Who are the artisans?
It is made of handwoven leather with a zipper closure. It is made by our in house weavers.
How long does it take to make one? Does it come in one size? Any other colors?
The bag is entirely handwoven and has several stages in the production process. So it can take at least one month for it all to come together. Aside from gold, it comes in black, and brown as well.
The bag is innovative, creative and fun yet very anchored with Filipino? Was this intentional? Why?
Definitely intentional! I created it as part of our Balay collection, which gives a sophisticated spin to the Filipino provincial life. And there’s no denying that a pamaypay is part of provincial living!
Does the clutch retain its signature rigid shape over time, or does the woven material soften with frequent handling?
It will retain its shape because it has a skeleton underneath. But of course, the woven leather may possibly loosen through time.
What specific maintenance steps are recommended to care for the bag since it’s all leather?
Do not overstuff the clutch so that it retains its shape. But otherwise it should be good.
Why leather and not specific indigenous fibers such as abacá, raffia, or buntal that are harvested and signature materials of the brand?
If I used a natural fiber it may just look like a real “fan” that was readily available and sewn together. So i wanted to do something more unexpected. Additionally we have been creating a lot of woven leather bags recently so I wanted to continue playing around with that material.
Does the adaptation of the pamaypay into a high-fashion accessory risk commercializing a cultural artifact, or does it successfully elevate Filipino craftsmanship globally?
I think it bridges a Filipino iconic piece with the global world. Making it relatable without being too “culturally” linked. Our aim as a brand has always been to communicate and create pieces that are grounded in Filipino culture But modern and relevant to for the global woman.
Is this statement true: For Aranaz, does carrying a piece shaped like a traditional fan serve as an act of cultural pride and visual nationalism for the modern global Filipina? Why?
Yes it is though not exclusive just to the Filipinos. The fan isn’t too foreign a concept to other nationalities that they would veer away from it. And i feel can easily be adapted to their wardrobe as well. I believe that the pamaypay also represents the feminine and flirty character of the modern Maria Clara.