A restored 1920s ancestral home was the setting for a seafood meal honoring motherhood. Great food nourishes the soul, just as a mother nourishes generations. Though we can never fully repay a mother’s unconditional love, a carefully prepared luncheon is a beautiful way to honor it.

This was the spirit behind an intimate luncheon last 21 May at Lobby 385, one of San Juan’s newest upscale restaurants helmed by Chef Kalel Chan.

Cold Storage Seafood, the country’s trusted importer and distributor of over 400 premium frozen seafood products from the US, Japan, Norway and beyond, partnered with chef Kalel to create a six-course meal that showcased both culinary finesse and premium ingredients.

Chef Kale approached the menu with restraint and respect. He let the seafood shine, layering each dish with technique and balance. His creations didn’t mask the ingredients — they elevated them.

Six-course experience

The meal began with a comforting bowl of Seafood Cioppino with Chilean mussels and shrimp, served in a crusty bread bowl. The tomato-based broth was rich and briny, slow-cooked to a depth that warmed from the inside out. Plump mussels and sweet shrimp gave it body and sweetness.

Two appetizers followed. The Baked Croquettes — stuffed with Hokkaido crab sticks and Chilean mussels —were creamy, savory, and golden with just the right crunch.

The Stracciatella Capers with Grilled Grapes & Kaffir was a standout: rich stracciatella cheese paired with smoky-sweet grilled grapes, briny capers, and fresh tomatoes. Light, refreshing, but complex.

Then came the mains.

The Black Cod Miso Saikyo Yaki with Hijakama Ginger was flawless. The cod — marinated for days — was tender and flaky, with natural oils balanced by the sweetness of the miso and the bright sharpness of hijakama ginger.

The Kopa-grilled Salmon Tandoori with Orzo Biryani and Cilantro Chutney offered a smoky aroma from the charcoal grill, with the tandoori marinade infusing the salmon with earthy depth. The orzo biryani soaked up the flavors, while the cilantro chutney brought it all together with a clean, herbaceous lift.

Then came the centerpiece: an 800-gram Angus Striploin Steak, seared and served medium rare. Guests could finish cooking it to their liking using mini tabletop stoves. It was paired with indulgent steak rice and creamed spinach, rich with butter and a touch of nutmeg.

Dessert came in two forms. The tiramisu was a classic done right — light mascarpone layered with espresso-soaked sponge. The mulled wine poached pears were elegant, spiced, and just sweet enough to close the meal gracefully.

Collaboration and craft

Lobby 385 is a modern steakhouse, and Chef Kalel is well-regarded for his expertise with meats. Yet even Cold Storage president Marco Qua was surprised by how confidently the chef handled seafood.

“Honestly, the black cod — the gindara — really surprised me. Usually, gindara is a very oily, rich fish. But what chef Kalel did was very technical. He marinated it in miso for two days — the miso was even cooked first before marination. He’s known for steaks, but clearly, his seafood technique is just as impressive,” Qua said.

“I’ve actually worked with Chef Kalel before, during the launch of two of our stores, so I’ve already seen how creative he is. For this menu, for example, we collaborated using our products. His execution and creativity really align with us.”

“We provide the raw materials, and he works his magic. You see something ordinary — like a cut of steak — and then suddenly he turns it into something surprising. You’re left wondering, ‘How did he even come up with that?’”

When I asked chef Kalel how seafood gives him more creative freedom, he replied:

“With meats — like beef — the flavor profile is mostly consistent. But with seafood, it’s totally different. Some fish are fattier, some are drier, some have a stronger ‘fishy’ taste, while others are more meaty. The textures and flavors vary depending on the type and where it’s from. That’s what makes seafood challenging.

It’s also more delicate — you can easily overcook it. Even in preparation, it’s not just rinse and grill. You need to handle it properly: cut it dry, keep it chilled, sear it well. There are techniques involved. Like what you ate earlier — the cod — it’s very fatty and a premium fish. I made a miso base with mirin and sugar, cooled it, then marinated the fish in it for 2 to 3 days to draw out excess fat and moisture. That’s why it was flaky yet juicy, not dry.”

Every seafood item served that day — from the cod and salmon to the mussels — was sourced from Cold Storage Seafood. The ingredients may have come from waters around the globe, but the values behind them remain local, rooted in family and integrity.

Tribute to mothers

Before the meal began, Marco Qua gave a heartfelt tribute to his mother, Elizabeth Qua. Now the president of Cold Storage Seafood, he credited her for shaping not only the family business but also the principles behind it.

“She was a strict disciplinarian,” he said, “but our guiding force, our quiet strength, and the original boss of Cold Storage Seafood. She trained us to be honest, to be reliable.”

Later, he shared a memory: “Back then, my brother and I were just kids — 12 or 13 — working as cashiers in our stores. We used to talk to moms at the counter. They’d share recipes and tips. That’s actually why we wanted to hold a Mother’s Day event — to celebrate them.”

When asked what values continue to guide the company, he was clear. “We don’t cut corners. We do things the right way. We take care of our people. That’s what continues to guide us.”

And indeed, it shows — not just in the quality of the ingredients, but in the care poured into every dish, every partnership, every bite.