Nagasaki: Past, presence, peace
Each time, Nagasaki has bounced back, with a steadfast message of peace and harmony.
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Each time, Nagasaki has bounced back, with a steadfast message of peace and harmony.
Kibinago sashimi.
Oura priest
Oura church interior.
Glover Garden and Residence.
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum.
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum.
Peace statue.
Urakami Cathedral.
Japan’s culture is built on a strong sense of identity, which is reflected in its cities. Kyoto epitomizes traditional Japan with its arts, extensive history and deep heritage. Osaka is defined by its merchants and bustling entrepreneurial spirit, while Tokyo represents modernity and power as the sprawling mega-city and seat of administration.
Nagasaki is unique in that it represents a city where Japan was shaped by the outside world as much as by its own internal influences — a place where Japan was introduced to the world and vice versa.
Since the Age of Exploration, Nagasaki served as the portal through which the outside world entered Japan. In 1543, the first Portuguese ship arrived, bringing medicine, firearms, astronomy and new ideas and beliefs. Christianity spread rapidly, with the Society of Jesus, led by St. Francis Xavier, converting many to the Christian faith.
Although foreign influence was largely sealed off for two centuries under Japan’s policy of seclusion, Nagasaki remained a point of contact. When the Meiji Restoration ended the isolationist policy in the late 19th century, interactions with the West resumed, bringing Christianity and modern technology back into the country.
Nagasaki played a pivotal role in Japan’s modernization. The city was the first to see Western concepts like railroads, shipyards and mints introduced before they were spread across Japan. This created a unique fusion of cultures, evident in its architecture, language, food and festivals. Nagasaki remains, to this day, distinctly Japanese but with an added layer of Western and Asian nuances.
For all its beauty, Nagasaki has a tragic history. It has endured numerous hardships, from Christian persecution to the devastation caused by the atomic bomb. Yet, each time, Nagasaki has bounced back, with a steadfast message of peace and harmony.
One of the best ways to take in Nagasaki’s beauty is from the top of the 333-meter Inasa-Yama (Mt. Inasa), accessible by a glass-covered cable car. Though not particularly elevated, it provides an unparalleled view of the city and its port, surrounded by rolling mountains on three sides.
From this vantage point, cruise ships dot the bay, and the hillsides are lined with homes, their lights twinkling in the evening.
The sight is so magnificent that it was named one of the world’s best three-night views at the World Night View Summit in 2012.
The 450-year history of Christianity in Japan is strongly reflected in Nagasaki, where numerous churches and pilgrimage sites tell the story of faith amidst persecution. Christianity first arrived in 1550, introduced by St. Francis Xavier, and Nagasaki became known as “little Rome in the East.”
However, as the Tokugawa Shogunate’s expulsion of foreign missionaries took hold, Christians were forced into hiding. Despite severe persecution, “hidden Christians” continued their faith for over 250 years. In 1865, after the ban on Christianity was lifted, they revealed themselves to the authorities at Oura Cathedral.
Oura Catholic Church, Japan’s oldest Gothic-style church, stands as a testament to the Christian martyrs of Nagasaki. Dedicated to the 26 saints who were crucified on Nishizaka Hill, its stained-glass windows are over a century old. The church and the statues on Nishizaka Hill face each other, a poignant reminder of their shared history.
Nakamichi Church, originally built in 1896, was reconstructed after the atomic bombing. It was re-dedicated to the canonization of Saint Thomas and the 15 martyrs, ensuring the legacy of those who sacrificed their lives for their faith.
Nagasaki also played a key role in Japan’s isolation during the Tokugawa period. In 1636, Dejima, an artificial island, was constructed to house Dutch traders. For over two centuries, it was the only place where foreigners could engage with the Japanese. As a result, all foreign influences — whether cultural or intellectual — were funneled through Dejima. A visit to the island offers a glimpse into life in this isolated enclave, where foreign settlers and Japanese officials lived in close quarters.
Glover Garden, in contrast, represents Japan’s reopening to the outside world in the late 19th century. Scottish merchant Thomas Glover, instrumental in Japan’s modernization, helped introduce the first railway system and printing press, along with many other Western technologies. His influence helped bring an end to the Shogunate and restore the emperor to power, paving the way for the Meiji Restoration.
Glover’s home, located in Glover Garden, is a beautiful example of Western and Japanese architectural fusion. The wooden structure, which is Japan’s oldest Western-style house, was the site of secret meetings aimed at ending the Shogunate. The garden offers a stunning view of Nagasaki’s port and allows visitors to step back in time, imagining life during Japan’s transformative era.
The most tragic chapter in Nagasaki’s history unfolded at 11:02 a.m. on 9 August 1945, when an atomic bomb dropped from an American B29 plane detonated over the city. Originally intended for the Mitsubishi shipyard, the bomb fell on the Urakami district due to cloud cover obscuring the target. The explosion killed 150,000 people and devastated the area. Today, a stone obelisk marks the hypocenter, where the bomb detonated.
A short distance from the hypocenter, Peace Park was established to promote world peace. The centerpiece is the massive Peace Statue, symbolizing a prayer for the victims, with its right hand pointing skyward toward the nuclear threat and its left hand extended in the hope of eternal peace. The surrounding fountains and trees further emphasize the park’s message of recovery and peace.
The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum holds relics, photographs and personal items, providing a powerful reminder of the horrors of war. Visitors leave with a renewed commitment to ensuring that such devastation is never repeated.
The Urakami Roman Catholic Church, the largest in Japan, was destroyed in the bombing. Although rebuilt, it remains a somber reminder of the tragedy. Headless statues and a broken Virgin Mary statue still stand as testaments to the destruction. The church’s bell continues to chime, a poignant echo from a time of unimaginable loss.
Nagasaki’s history is marked by pain, but its message of peace and resilience resonates strongly, making it a city that honors its past while looking toward a harmonious future.
