Rikugien Gardens: Poetry in stillness and motion
Like a wonderful poem, Rikugien reveals itself little by little, step by step, verse by verse, line by line. And then, it unravels into one magnificent tableau at the end of it all.
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Like a wonderful poem, Rikugien reveals itself little by little, step by step, verse by verse, line by line. And then, it unravels into one magnificent tableau at the end of it all.
Age-old trees dot the sacred area.
Rippling ponds.
Yellow blooms around the vicinity.
A tea reprieve to reflect and rest.
The much-awaited Cherry blossoms.
Oftentimes, a garden may be a poem. Oh yes, 88 of them, to be rightfully precise!
A warm welcome to Rikugien Gardens, a serene and peaceful oasis at the heart of Tokyo, among the world’s busiest capital cities.
Upon shushed entry — we were requested to keep our chatter to mere whispers to preserve the sacredness of it all — it was obviously clear to appreciate the reason our ever-so knowing tour guide smiled when he dubbed the grounds as one of Tokyo’s exceptionally appealing landscapes.
Created in 1702 by Yoshiyasu Yanagisawa, trusted official under the fifth shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, Rikugien has endured and withstood centuries of transformative change.
Fun fact: we learned during the Meiji period, it even became the second residence of Mitsubishi founder Yataro Iwasaki before it eventually opened to the public!
The name Rikugien literally means Six Poems Garden. Rather than pertaining to six specific verses, it is actually a representation of the six principles of the Japanese waka poetry — would you believe, it was a style that came long before the haiku was in vogue?
From the introduction of our local guide – and we may be paraphrasing some bits here — the ideals include persuasion, description, comparison, evocative imagery, elegance and eulogies or praises. The hexad of beliefs form the cornerstone of each mark in this reprieve within the bustling city.
Specifically designed as an Edo-period strolling garden, the Rikugien recreates 88 scenes inspired by famous waka — all spread across 21 acres! With trails and indicators, however, it can take approximately an hour to see most sights at a leisurely pace. But brief derails here and there can easily extend the sanpo till the entire afternoon.
Here are sights you should glimpse and cherish.
Just beyond the simple and austere entrance stood the garden’s famous Weeping Cherry Blossom Tree. In March, its delicate pink blossoms cascade and descend like a waterfall.
The central pond is without a doubt the heart of Rikugien, as pathways encircle it, with signages to lead visitors to the next shaded forest, gentle hills, open lawns, or nearby hideaway teahouses.
Cross the rustic Togetsukyo Bridge and pause for a moment or two — “There’s a surprise here,” teased our tour guide. As we peered through the cracks of the massive stone slabs, we spotted brightly colored carps — which symbolizes strength, perseverance and good fortune — glided through the waters. We soon learned the bridge takes its name from a waka, which vividly describes the luminous glowing moon as it crossed the evening sky, as the cry of a crane echoed through the rice fields.
We then continued toward the small island where islets Imi-no-yama and Se-no-yama rose gently from the water, separated by the rock dubbed as Tamazasa. These recreated another beloved poetic scenery from the classics.
If you feel like slowing down even more, drop by Takimi Chaya or Fukiage Chaya. These two areas are ideal for tea breaks overlooking the pond. For a while, we all sat quietly as we contently sipped on some ocha, as we observed the gentle breeze create ripples across the water, which flowed through the rocks and boulders into a brook.
One final tip: should you visit during the much-awaited cherry blossom time or autumn, expect an entirely different spectacle. Spring brings crowds gathering for hanami — the Japanese custom of viewing flowers. Meanwhile, fall transforms foliage into brilliant shades of amber, crimson and gold for momijigari — yet again another flower viewing tradition with additional customs, but during the latter season. During both times, however, Rikugien extends its opening hours and illuminates the panorama after sunset. Do not miss the evenings walks!
Like a wonderful poem, Rikugien reveals itself little by little, step by step, verse by verse, line by line. And then, it unravels into one magnificent tableau at the end of it all. That was undoubtedly a Japanese afternoon excellently lived.
