It was just last month when I was in Paris and other parts of France when I noticed something odd: the world’s capitale de la mode (fashion capital) seems to be now dominated by moda española (Spanish fashion).

Yes, there are still many Chanels and Louis Vuittons from corner to corner, from the touristy Champ-Elysees to the less-crowded Vendome and Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore where the elite shops, but these were almost empty.

Spanish label Zara, in contrast, occupies spaces as big or even bigger than local French brands in France, and these stores are filled with frenetic shoppers from all over the world at any time of the day. Sales people even had to shoo away shoppers near closing time. It seems that when France imposed heavy regulatory pressure on China-founded shopping platform SHEIN to hamper competition with French brands, other more affordable brands like Spanish label Zara seems to have benefitted more than the French luxury market.

In Paris and other French streets, too, only French athleisure brands Le Coq Sportif and Lacoste have considerable presence, while the more heritage and upmarket ones like Chanel, LV, Yves Saint Laurent, Hermes and Cartier are hidden away in elitist locations, which shouldn’t be; they should be easily seen by everyone as national symbols. In countries that barely know France and its history, the Chanel, LV or any French luxury fashion house logo serves as the ambassador of France, as iconic as McDonald’s.

Other cult French brands such as Jacquemus, Dior and Kenzo couldn’t be seen at all; I’ve seen Armani and Dries van Noten more often.

But apart from stricter regulations against foreign labels, French luxury maisons (houses) are now fighting back by shifting from volume-based growth to value-centric model emphasizing heritage, ultra-luxury quality and pricing and sustainability. Indeed, in my window-shopping in France, for example, I’ve seen more and more of those using natural and sustainable materials like rattan. A Chanel minaudière made of a giant ostrich egg is my favorite.

Likewise, French brands are capitalizing more on high-low collaborations for greater visibility. In time for the 2026 World Cup, Jacquemus collaborated with Nike in designing French national team uniforms.

Just this week, Spanish brand Desigual returned to the Philippines, at the second floor of Rustan’s Makati, with a stronger collection and brand positioning — bannering its spring/summer 2026 collaboration collection with French label M. Christian Lacroix. The brands officially began collaborating for Fall/Winter 2011. Through the new 30-square-meter store, Filipinos would now have more access to the collaboration collection, which was only mostly available in airports and other countries.

My picks from the new store, however, are not from the Lacroix collection. For one, I’ve seen shirts and button-down tops from the collaboration with Disney or Mickey and Minnie that I could probably take to my next Disneyland trip. There are embroidered black and white and denim jackets with a back detail that seems cut from old pants that make me salivate. I’m a sucker for off-the-rack bespoke.

My biggest “budol,” however, is a choco brown bag with everything that I’m looking for in a bag — expandable to fit a laptop, multi-way, with many hidden pockets and with a detachable micro bag with its own strap — it was love at first sight. I know I’d be dreaming of it if I won’t buy it, so even if my finances are still bleeding from my recent Europe trip, I know I’d just have to buy that bag for my next adventures.

I’ve got so many bags, including some LVs, Chanels and Guccis, but I didn’t have any favorite until this one came.

If only luxury brands would similarly strike a balance between form and function — luxurious leather but lightweight; anti-theft and plenty in storage but premium in hardware; bespoke but with thoughtfully-placed pockets — pieces that people actually need and would really use every day and not only want to have for status, reselling, collecting or for using only during special occasions — then spending one’s hard-earned money on a luxury item would hurt less and would be more justified. Today, with the influx of many pretty but impractical designs, versatility is the new luxury.