Vienna taste test: The most iconic restaurant in the world



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Revered wiener schnitzel Still prepared and served the same way since 1905.

Ideal moment It’s always schnitzel time!

Iconic shades of green The Figlmüller.
Photographs by Edu Jarque for DAILY TRIBUNE

Diners dream Tourists, visitors and locals all eager to dine.

Boracay pioneer The author (seated) with the resto gentleman with intact memories beyond forgetting.

Preferred side dish Potato-field and mixed green salad.

Impervious color Even the grills are painted in the same hue.
It was one Sunday morning when my home office desk was buried under a heap of overflowing travel documents. I was finalizing the pre- and post-tours, the before and after of a 10-day cruise — The Best of Italy, Croatia and Montenegro — all in all, slightly more than three week pilgrimage-holiday.
There were air tickets, hotel vouchers with all the bed specifics — and mind you, no bathtubs please, as we’re all seniors — rooming lists, tour confirmations, more copies of passports, printed itineraries and travel insurance pamphlets scattered everywhere. My five siblings and a spouse, plus our three most-traveled-with buddies all prefer print versions — they abhor anything digital.
To take a much-needed breather, I reached for one of the national Sunday newspapers, being one of only two subscribers in the building. A story caught my immediate attention: The 100 Most Iconic Restaurants in the World. I am, admittedly, a sucker for lists. My interest was piqued — curious, intrigued, fascinated, captivated — and at times, even in disbelief.
The index is formulated annually by TatseAtlas, a Croatia-based online guide founded in 2018 for traditional food which emphasizes authentic recipes and local fare. The criteria gives credence to longevity, reliability, and their contribution to the spirit of the city.
To our pleasant surprise, much-loved-for-generations The Aristocrat made it to number 73, recognized for its lumpiang shanghai. Patrons have always associated it with chicken and pork barbecue, Java rice, and that oh-so famous sauce. Still owned by the Reyes clan, the location remains the unchanged — a classic, never fail choice for all reunions. Of late, most OFWs get together with family and friends after Sunday Mass at the nearby Malate Church.
Another Manila favorite, the much-talked-about Café Adriatico, appeared at number 90 for its adobo, though I fondly remember it for their beef salpicao, most of all. The late Larry Cruz, the most-admired culinary visionary leading the pioneering root, later created other memorable dining institutions around the metropolis.
But the biggest surprise came at number one: Figlmüller — Home of the Original Wiener Schnitzel — right in Vienna! It slowly dawned on me, following the itinerary by memory, the last day of our holiday before flying out was none other than the capital city of Austria.
I immediately called Cecile Quevenco, our trusted tour operator, who I remember studied in the city and somehow considers it her second home. She was familiar with the restaurant and had in fact dined there several times prior. Before we ended the call, she graciously invited me to join her — as a climax for our tour-related meetings of choice bistros and pastry shops around Makati — at Figlmüller for lunch on our last free day.
Fast forward. Figlmüller was not along a grand boulevard, but down a narrow pedestrian alley. Established in 1905, the restaurant’s signature dark green exterior was easy to spot. The walls were covered with photographs of famous guests and more VIPs, clippings from notable worldwide publications, all trumpeting it as the most iconic restaurant in the world.
We were immediately attended to by a gentleman with a head full of salt-and-pepper hair from the fast-disappearing old world who greeted us with a smile. Upon learning we were from the Philippines, he did not lose time to proudly declare he had been to Boracay four times, one trip annually, until — in his words — “the lights were installed.” He decided to completely stop his visits, “to relish the beautiful memory of a lovely magical, rustic island.” He even requested for a phot, if possible at all, to remember this brief encounter.
The restaurant was understandably busy, with visitors and tourists constantly coming and going — plus several locals, just on a quick lunch break — no bells nor whistles, but a time to savor and capture the moment.
We ordered their house specialty: Figlmüller-Schnitzel, just as it has been served since 1905. Considered a relic of the “glory days of yore,” it was shared to please appreciative diners whose appetites went beyond the edges of their plates. The tradition continues today — the schnitzel is still as massive as ever!
Cecile specifically ordered for the potato-field salad with pumpkin seed oil together with a small mixed salad, both highly-recommended must-have sides to Austria’s national dish. To drink, she insisted on Almdudler, the much-revered herbal soda.
When the schnitzel arrived, it was larger than the plate itself — golden, thin, and crisp. Only a wedge of lemon was needed. Everyone around us seemed to agree — no one asked for additional dips or sauces.
I have a personal list of foods I like to compare wherever I go — French onion soup, sweet and sour pork, chocolate cake, and Wiener Schnitzel. Without question, Figlmüller tops the last item.
In addition, Figlmüller also offers an inviting selection of Viennese classics. There is Cordon Bleu vom Huhn — chicken cordon bleu with melting cheese inside — and the Hühnerschnitzel gebacken, a lighter chicken version of the traditional schnitzel.
The Feine Kalbsleber gebraten mit Rösterdäpfeln features roasted calf’s liver served with potatoes, while the Wiener Tafelspitz im Suppentopf serviert offers the comforting boiled beef in broth with chive sauce, apple-horseradish, and crisp fried potatoes.
For those wanting something heartier, the Kalbsrahmgulasch mit Butternockerl — veal goulash with butter dumplings — is a dependable favorite.
Before leaving, we noticed a few amusing details. Many visitors want a souvenir. Among the most popular and easy-to-pocket items? The toilet keys. The management has since attached them to heavy cowbells — so large they cannot fit into anyone’s pocket. Yet, a few still go missing each year.
Perhaps this is what it means to carry the happy burden of being the most iconic resto in the world — everyone wants to have a piece. For us, though, the must-recall memories were more than we bargained for, till our next visit to one of our favorite cities on the world, Vienna.