One mid-autumn afternoon in the stately city of Vienna, our tour organizer and good friend Cecile Quevenco pointed toward a more-than-just-a-restaurant she insisted we should partake of their offerings before we said our goodbyes to the Austrian capital. Once a student, with some family members as residents, she considers Vienna as her European home. And her expert recommendations were from personal experiences — so we knew we were in for an indulgence.
She previously hosted me at Figlmüller, the most iconic restaurant in the world, “a title awarded by the prestigious global food database Taste Atlas, due to its uncompromising century-long specialization in the perfect Viennese Schnitzel.”
This time, we took a brief walk from our hotel for a taste of imperial Vienna — the Gerstner K. u. K. Hofzuckerbäcker — which roughly translates to The Imperial and Royal Court Confectioner.
Set within the elegant Palais Todesco, Gerstner was a three-floor masterpiece. The ground level showcased a confectionery shop filled with an impressive array of chocolates, a decadent selection of cakes, and neatly wrapped tempting sweets. Right above was the café-bar, the ideal destination for intimate coffee and tea breaks, and relaxed groups for wines and spirits. Oh, if only walls could talk!
A staircase adorned with regal paintings on the walls brought us to the upper floor, which housed the restaurant itself. Dressed in polished wood, elaborate glass chandeliers, artistically framed delicate mirrors, and several paintings of artists and the life-sized portraits of Emperor Franz Joseph I and the well-loved Empress Elisabeth, fondly known as Sisi, all these exuded elegance, opulence, and grandeur. Oh yes, lest I forget, a second location may be found at the main summer residence of the Habsburg royal family, the Schönbrunn Palace!
A gracious smiling attendant handed us a hefty leather-bound menu highlighting curated selections which balanced Austrian classics with lighter fare. We excitedly took a dive!
A couple considered the Legendary Gerstner Sausages served with mustard, horseradish, and bread rolls. A few had smoked salmon accompanied by caviar, quail egg, cucumbers, celery, horseradish cream and baguette. Did I noticed some at the far end of the table had the beef tartare with toast and butter, plus Austrian cheeses? Even the Imperial House Salad — romaine lettuce with yogurt dressing, quinoa, celery and walnuts — was a hit.
These were just some of the standouts.
A number obviously had their variant of Wiener Schnitzel! Gerstner’s version of veal was thinly pounded and coated in a crisp golden crust, and garnished with parsley, potatoes, and cranberries. While the gaze of seatmates could not be ignored, we gladly shared slices. Comparison of schnitzels quickly became part of the laid-back discussions. And why wouldn’t we take it easy? From where we sat, we could admire the nearby Vienna State Opera, where performances by the giants and icons of music filled the hallowed halls.
A memorable moment was courtesy of our lone server’s tale — without intrusion. We soon learned the attendant was from a troubled country, where “peace is nothing but a dream.” The wait staff spoke so matter-of-factly about the years spent migrating from one nation to another — with difficult jobs to save enough money to move to the next border.
There was no appeal for sympathy in the manner the narrative was shared — it was filled with discipline, grit and determination. Austria has finally become home — as the server has been reunited with the rest of the family in the country.
Realizing our blessings and full of gratitude, we wished the hard worker the very best as we bade farewell.
We made our obligatory stop at the too-difficult-to-resist displays of the confectionery. We were informed due to the premium quality, the establishment became an official purveyor to the Austrian imperial household and eventually earned the favor of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria. The tradition is upheld till today, with Gerstner as the caterer of the prestigious and pinnacle-of-it-all the Vienna Opera Ball.
Naturally, all travel buddies without exception purchased take-me-home boxes for family and friends: several slices of Esterházy torte, Dobos cake and packs of dark chocolate with brittle, confectionery bonbonnières, macaroons and tiny marzipan fruits almost too decorative to eat.
Per the mere suggestion of a sibling, we all readily succumbed to cones and cups of various flavors of artisanal ice cream! And thus, with the widest of smiles and a self-induced food coma, we commenced our amble through the beautiful autumn city like no other in our last day in memorable Vienna.
