Championing Cordillera culture and cuisine

Before the feast, staff of the restaurant Baguio Mountain Man performed an introductory welcoming rite to thank the anitos (deities).

Headed by former musician-chef Chavi Romawac, with his wife Millie, the restaurant’s signature open-fire dining experience puts a spotlight on Cordillera dishes made from local agricultural produce.

The dining joint is the manifestation of a lifelong journey dedicated to preserving the Cordilleras’ native culinary practices, many of which generations of elders and local communities have passed down.

“We see food as a living story, a bridge connecting the past to the present. Our goal is to keep these traditions alive not just as cultural artifacts but as everyday experiences that people can taste, share and celebrate,” Chavi shared.

The couple’s work began during the pandemic when they traveled extensively throughout the Cordillera provinces to document heirloom recipes, open-fire cooking techniques and the cultural narratives that give Cordillera dishes meaning.

Their Roofdeck Kitchen in Baguio has become a cultural hub that can now be experienced at John Hay Hotels. At the Garden Wing and Forest Wing, previously known as The Manor and Forest Lodge, guests can indulge in open-fire dinners that recreate authentic Cordillera meals using locally sourced, sustainable ingredients that directly benefit farmers and small-scale producers.

Landco Lifestyle Ventures (LLV), the hospitality arm of Landco Pacific Corporation, a subsidiary of Metro Pacific Investments Corporation, helmed by chairman Manuel V. Pangilinan, now manages John Hay Hotels.

Some of the Cordillera dishes featured are Hinanglag, a slow-cooked pork belly inspired by Kiangan traditions, cooked in its fat until tender and flavorful; Pinikpikan-style Baguio Chicken Rice, featuring the indigenous chicken preparation ritual that tenderizes the meat and enhances its flavor; Mountain Man Clambake that combines locally foraged watercress and fresh seafood from Pangasinan, bridging mountain and coastal culinary traditions; and the heirloom rice dishes made with grains from Ifugao farmers, paired with indigenous vegetables from Benguet and traditional condiments.

These dishes are not merely food but living expressions of Cordillera culture, reflecting local rituals, storytelling and community values shared through generations.

“We are very happy to partner with Landco Lifestyle Ventures because we share a passion and commitment to uplifting Cordillera culture and communities. Their support enables us to bring indigenous cuisine to a wider audience while ensuring that the local farmers and artisans who make it possible are respected and valued,” Millie said.

By sourcing directly from local small-scale producers and honoring traditional culinary methods, Baguio Mountain Man and LLV promote not only sustainable tourism but also the preservation and celebration of Cordillera identity, empowering communities to keep their culture alive and thriving.

“Our vision is to create lifestyle destinations that not only showcase the natural beauty and culture of their locations but also actively contribute to the sustainability and prosperity of the local communities. Through partnerships like this with Mountain Man, we ensure that the heritage and traditions of the Cordilleras are honored and that our support helps uplift local SMEs, preserving their livelihoods for generations to come,” Patrick C. Gregorio, LLV head, emphasized.

The restaurant’s signature open-fire Cordilleran dining experience is available on Saturdays at the Garden Wing.

“We are also deeply committed to responsible tourism that empowers people. At John Hay Hotels, we don’t just want to offer visitors a beautiful place to stay — we want to build a thriving ecosystem where culture, community and commerce grow hand in hand. This means supporting our local suppliers, providing fair wages and benefits to our colleagues, and creating memorable experiences that celebrate Baguio and the Cordilleras authentically,”

Gregorio affirms.