Forget coffee shops — Italian is the New ‘Merienda’

There are no rules when it comes to merienda. My go-to afternoon sanctuary happens to be Sicilian Roast Italian Kitchen & Bar, an upscale-casual spot tucked inside Santolan Town Plaza. Surrounded by open sky, lush greenery and a calm koi pond, it offers this San Juan resident an instant sense of relief. For a peaceful midday pause, it beats a noisy coffee shop every single time.

Breaking the coffee shop routine

We usually default to coffee shops to de-stress or work through a deadline. But sometimes, I want quiet, a proper table and actual food. One afternoon, with the nearby coffee chain packed, I walked into Sicilian Roast for a hot cappuccino, a Biscoff Lotus cookie and a seat. Then came the complimentary basket of warm focaccia and dipping sauce.

That focaccia can derail any plan to “just have coffee.” Golden and crisp outside, soft and airy inside, it is warm, chewy and dangerously easy to keep eating. One piece becomes two, and suddenly it’s merienda.

Excellent hospitality

The space strikes a balance between polished and cozy, with dark wood, black-and-cream seating, soft chandeliers, and tables set with real glassware. Large windows look out toward the plaza’s landscaped walkway, while a glass-enclosed kitchen offers a view of the team sliding dough into the pizza oven.

But it’s the genuine hospitality that keeps me coming back. The service hits that rare sweet spot, attentive and warm without ever feeling intrusive.

Once, in the middle of merienda, the dog groomers called to say my Lhasa Apso-Maltese was ready for pickup. The staff let me leave, get him, and bring him back to join me indoors, in the air-conditioned dining area. It was a small gesture, but exactly the kind that makes a place feel welcoming.

Rich bowls and classic plates

My mother and I regularly collapse here after a heavy grocery run, and our non-negotiable order is the Caesar Salad. Crisp romaine, smoky bacon, sharp Parmesan and crunchy croutons get tossed in a creamy dressing anchored by anchovies for a rich, savory punch. The portions do not play around either; splitting a bowl leaves us both completely satisfied.

The truffle chips are another indulgent merienda for me: a huge bowl of thin, crisp potato chips dusted with truffle seasoning, intensely savory and aromatic. They’re light enough to keep reaching for, but rich enough to make a serious dent in your merienda appetite. One bowl is definitely meant for sharing, though it’s dangerously easy to claim it for yourself.

The pasta selection spans subtle to bold. Linguine Vongole offers a clean, gentle toss of clams, olive oil, garlic and lemon. The seared lasagna delivers serious crunch and comfort, layering caramelized edges with marinara, béchamel, mozzarella and Parmesan. Meanwhile, the Bottarga alla Carmen coats angel hair in garlic and olive oil, letting cured fish roe bring a concentrated, savory seafood punch that stays surprisingly light.

Soulful soups and crisp crusts

On days when my energy hits rock bottom, I order soup. The Cioppino is my absolute favorite: a deep, soul-warming seafood stew built on sweet tomatoes and rich shrimp bisque, packed with seafood and served alongside their house focaccia. The tomato brings a bright acidity to the rich broth, while the shrimp bisque gives it a deeper seafood savoriness. It is the bowl I reach for when I need something warm, filling and comforting.

The roasted squash with ricotta truffle brings softer, sweeter comfort, with the roasted squash balanced by creamy ricotta and earthy truffle. The truffle mushroom soup goes deeper into savory territory, with three mushroom varieties, truffle paste, leek ash and basil oil creating an earthy, aromatic bowl. For something classic, the minestrone brings together crushed tomatoes, root vegetables, green beans and tender orzo for the kind of familiar warmth that feels like an everyday Italian hug.

Their pizzas put the restaurant’s slow-fermented dough front and center. The Burrata combines creamy burrata, fire-roasted marinara, rich pistachio crema, peppery arugula, parmesan and a pinch of Maldon salt, giving each bite a lovely mix of creamy, tangy, savory and fresh.

Whenever my niece Alice joins me for merienda, the Quattro Formaggi is an easy win, with Gorgonzola, Asiago, mozzarella and Parmesan delivering full-on cheesy satisfaction. I usually drift back to the Arugula Prosciutto, where marinara and salty prosciutto meet creamy mozzarella and Parmesan, with peppery arugula cutting through the richness.

Midday feasts

My most recent merienda visit was on a Tuesday afternoon after a doctor’s appointment. I was stressed and went to Sicilian to give me a little lift. I was initially tempted by the restaurant’s Vodka Chicken Parmesan, prominently advertised at the entrance, but decided that this was the day to try the Classico first. If the most basic is terrific, I thought, that’s when we try the complicated ones in the future.

And it was eye-poppingly delicious for me. The kitchen piles prosciutto, peppery arugula, red pesto, Pecorino cream and mozzarella between thick slices of chewy, rustic bread. The prosciutto brings a salty, cured richness, the arugula cuts through it with a fresh peppery bite, the red pesto adds a concentrated tomato-herb note, and the cheeses melt into a creamy, savory layer. Cut into four substantial triangles, a single piece filled me right up, leaving the rest for late-night snacking at home.

Ever since the cinemas closed down, Santolan Town Plaza has turned into a practical errand stop for pharmacy runs, groceries and quick appointments. It is easy to breeze past the dining spots without a second thought. Sicilian Roast might look like a place reserved for big dinners or formal celebrations, but that unexpected contrast is what makes an afternoon visit feel so special.

A paper cup on a cramped counter just won’t cut it every time. Sometimes you need a real table, proper cutlery and the unhurried ease of a long pause. Merienda belongs in that middle hour — a welcome reset when the day pulls heavy. It is sitting over a steaming bowl of Cioppino, letting the room quiet down around you while someone else minds the table.

Then you reach for another slice of warm focaccia.