Your new favorite neighborhood haunt
For restaurateur Elbert Cuenca, good food does not have to be fancy. Thoughtful dishes built on flavor, and a place people will want to come back to — now that’s a winning formula.
Daily TribuneFor restaurateur Elbert Cuenca, good food does not have to be fancy. Thoughtful dishes built on flavor, and a place people will want to come back to — now that’s a winning formula.
ELBERT Cuenca is still evolving as a restaurateur, and Harry’s Bistro is proof of his penchant for good food.
ALL PHOTOGRAPHS by Alvin Kasiban for DAILY TRIBUNE
ADDING contrast and tension to the cozy feel is the gallery wall bedecked with modern art.
WARM and welcoming is a vibe at Harry's, achieved through earth tones and natural materials
"WE DO not want our food to feel foreign," says Cuenca when describing their menu. The food may be deceivingly simple, but every bite is tasty.
CRAVING for a burger? Elbert’s take on the American classic is unctuous and indulgent.
With the rainy season upon us, this comforting bowl of Ragu may be all we need to shake off the doldrums
WILE many of his dishes can probably be found in a cookbook, Cuenca adds technique and the right ingredients to take them to the next level.
Harry's Bistro has built a lunch crowd, thanks to its approachable yet hearty fare.
PULPO and potato pave are a tasty bite that pairs well with any of the libations served at the bar
Everyone needs a friendly neighborhood haunt. That little place where you know you can head out to for some really great food, and even better drinks.
Ensconced right in the heart of Legazpi Village is Harry’s Bistro – an artsy little spot that feels like a vibe, but delivers on all the right flavor notes, pun intended, and a great night out. The latest venture of restaurateur Elbert Cuenca is set to become your new favorite watering hole, no matter what time of day you head out. That it may have been named after his pet dog, Harry, whose portrait you see on the menu — major plus points!
Being in the restaurant business for the better part of the last 30 years, Cuenca has, safe to say, done it all. He’s gone fine dining and fancy with the iconic Elbert’s Steak Room and Metronome, while also dabbling in some good old “everyday” food at the much-missed Elbert’s Sandwiches. With everyone pedaling back from looking for restaurants solely for the ‘gram, Harry’s Bistro hits that sweet spot between an elevated dining experience and good mood food you want to keep coming back to.
“We just want it to be effortless. It’s food we know how to do well,” says Cuenca. “Everything is meant to be casual and enjoyable.”
With the restaurant barely just a few months in, the place is already vibing with a steady flow of regulars coming in.
While the bistro is the relative new kid on the proverbial block, what draws you in is that feeling of the familiar. “The spirit of it is really about keeping it simple and easy. Our food aren’t dishes that you wouldn’t find in a regular cookbook, or even can’t make at home,” says Cuenca. “What we do is add technique, use the right ingredients — and we know we can make them well.” And a quick glance at the menu reveals proof of concept. Classics like a herb-crusted Rack of Lamb and the Steak Tartare are indulgent but not intimidating. Small plates like the Prosciutto and Chips and the Croquettas of the Day have that salty-savory kick to wake up the palate. Cuenca also recently announced that favorites from the Elbert’s Sandwiches menu — The Cheesesteak, the Reuben and The Tuna Melt — are set to make an appearance soon.
Reinventing the space was integral to Cuenca’s vision for the bistro. “I like to use the term old bones, new skin, infused with ideas from our farmer chef (Cuenca’s brother and business partner Adrian),” he shares. “We wanted it to be more cozy, relaxed and approachable with earth tones and wood. More human.”
An example of this idea is the bar, the bistro’s anchoring piece, which is a mix of familiar elements like leather, glass and metal. There is also some room for contrast, as some panels are accented by solihiya, while one wall is decorated with modern art.
“I’ve learned through experience that if a restaurant is so design-centric, people may not connect to it. Or translate to better business,” adds Cuenca. “I want everyone to feel welcome. And with a photo of his beloved dog Harry as their mascot, let’s just say, message received.
If you need one more reason why this place is meant to be your local haunt, there is Harry Hour. Think of it as a fun spin on the usual happy hour, with an interesting array of drinks to imbibe. From 5 p.m. – 8 p.m. (and that is a rather generous number of hours), you get free flowing Gin & Tonics, Tinto de Veranos, Negronis, Tommy’s Margarita, vodka-based Hugo and a few other libations, plus a serving of pintxos to go with every drink. Ringing in at P1,800 all in per head, that’s more than a great deal. One customer actually ticked off every drink and bite he tried during one visit. That’s a plan we can all get behind.
With Harry’s Bistro, Elbert Cuenca teaches us a few lessons about reinvention, one tasty bite at a time, shaped by constantly evolving culinary landscape. And for a country that loves to eat well, that’s never a bad thing.