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New Favorite Neighborhood Haunt

For restaurateur Elbert Cuenca, good food does not have to be fancy. Thoughtful dishes built on flavor, and a place people will want to come back to — now that’s a winning formula.
New Favorite Neighborhood Haunt
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Everyone needs a friendly neighborhood haunt. That little place where you know you can head out to for some really great food, and even better drinks.

ELBERT Cuenca is still evolving as a restaurateur, and Harry’s Bistro is proof of his penchant for good food.
ELBERT Cuenca is still evolving as a restaurateur, and Harry’s Bistro is proof of his penchant for good food.PHOTOGRAPHS by Alvin Kasiban for DAILY TRIBUNE

Ensconced right in the heart of Legazpi Village is Harry’s Bistro – an artsy little spot that feels like a vibe, but delivers on all the right flavor notes, pun intended, and a great night out. The latest venture of restaurateur Elbert Cuenca is set to become your new favorite watering hole, no matter what time of day you head out. That it may have been named after his pet dog, Harry, whose portrait you see on the menu – major plus points!

New Favorite Neighborhood Haunt
Cebu has moved on from lechon. Frankly, it had to.

Being in the restaurant business for the better part of the last 30 years, Cuenca has, safe to say, done it all. He’s gone fine dining and fancy with the iconic Elbert’s Steak Room and Metronome, while also dabbling in some good old “everyday” food at the much-missed Elbert’s Sandwiches. With everyone pedaling back from looking for restaurants solely for the ‘gram, Harry’s Bistro hits that sweet spot between an elevated dining experience and good mood food you want to keep coming back to.

HARRY’s Bistro interior.
HARRY’s Bistro interior.PHOTOGRAPH courtesy of Bread bake at the 2nd

“We just want it to be effortless. It’s food we know how to do well,” says Cuenca. “Everything is meant to be casual and enjoyable.”

With the restaurant barely just a few months in, the place is already vibing with a steady flow of regulars coming in.

While the bistro is the relative new kid on the proverbial block, what draws you in is that feeling of the familiar. “The spirit of it is really about keeping it simple and easy. Our food aren’t dishes that you wouldn’t find in a regular cookbook, or even can’t make at home,” says Cuenca. “What we do is add technique, use the right ingredients — and we know we can make them well.” And a quick glance at the menu reveals proof of concept. Classics like a herb-crusted Rack of Lamb and the Steak Tartare are indulgent but not intimidating. Small plates like the Prosciutto and Chips and the Croquettas of the Day have that salty-savory kick to wake up the palate. Cuenca also recently announced that favorites from the Elbert’s Sandwiches menu — The Cheesesteak, the Reuben and The Tuna Melt — are set to make an appearance soon.

CRAVING for a burger? Elbert’s tale on the American classic is unctuous and indulgent.
CRAVING for a burger? Elbert’s tale on the American classic is unctuous and indulgent.

Reinventing the space was integral to Cuenca’s vision for the bistro. “I like to use the term old bones, new skin, infused with ideas from our farmer chef (Cuenca’s brother and business partner Albert),” he shares. “We wanted it to be more cozy, relaxed and approachable with earth tones and wood. More human.”

An example of this idea is the bar, the bistro’s anchoring piece, which is a mix of familiar elements like leather, glass and metal. There is also some room for contrast, as some panels are accented by solihiya, while one wall is decorated with modern art.

“I’ve learned through experience that if a is so design-centric, people may not connect to it. Or translate to better business,” adds Cuenca. “I want everyone to feel welcome. And with a photo of his beloved dog Harry as their mascot, let’s just say, message received.

WILE many of his dishes can probably be found in a cookbook, Cuenca adds technique and the right ingredients to take them to the next level.
WILE many of his dishes can probably be found in a cookbook, Cuenca adds technique and the right ingredients to take them to the next level.

If you need one more reason why this place is meant to be your local haunt, there is Harry’s Hour. Think of it as a fun spin on the usual happy hour, with an interesting array of drinks to imbibe. From 5 p.m. – 8 p.m. (and that is a rather generous number of hours), you get free flowing Gin & Tonics, Tinto de Veranos, Negronis, Tommy’s Margarita, vodka-based Hugo and a few other libations, plus a serving of pintxos to go with every drink. Ringing in at P1,500 all in per head, that’s more than a great deal. One customer actually ticked off every drink and bite he tried during one visit. That’s a plan we can all get behind.

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