What comes to mind with Davao? Although I am not at all a political person, I can’t help but associate it with politics, particularly of the topsy-turvy variety.

The reason, of course, is the tumultuous and highly controversial political reign of former President Rodrigo Roa Duterte that perhaps could only be surpassed by the ongoing drama of the impeachment trial of his daughter and likely heir apparent, Vice President Sara Duterte, the frontrunner in the 2028 presidential derby.

But did you know there is more, a lot more, to Davao than politics?

I had an up-front and personal view of this emerging metropolis last weekend during a grand family reunion and birthday celebration of a close relative of my partner and fellow travel nomad.

Like any emerging big city, Davao has its share of heavy traffic as well as a bevy of modern high-rises, malls, restaurants, hotels catering to the glitzy needs of a burgeoning middle class, and night markets that serve, in turn, the needs of the hoi polloi, while retaining its charm of a provincial atmosphere of warm and friendly people and lush countryside.

Davao City, a dynamic cog and the largest city in Mindanao with a population of some two million, blends indigenous heritage and a colonial history, and exudes modern economic growth.

Today, this melting pot of different cultures stands as one of the largest cities in the country by land area and population, but it is better known as the political base and powerhouse of the Duterte clan.

The indigenous tribes of Davao, namely, the Bagobo, Mandaya, Ata, and other Lumad tribes tied to various sultanates, roamed the land called Daba-daba by the natives, meaning “Sunog” or “Apoy,” long before the advent of Christianity in 1848.

The Spanish overlords, following the defeat of Datu Bago by a Basque, Don Jose Oyanguren, the founder of the modern Davao Region renamed the land Nueva Vergara after his hometown in Spain. It was the Spanish influence that led to the cultivation of various agricultural products and the introduction of Catholicism.

The very fertile land and favorable climate of Davao led to diverse crop production along with thriving mid-sized businesses of cacao, coffee, durian, pomelo, lanzones, and bananas. So much so that Davao is referred to as the cacao capital, durian capital, and banana capital of the Philippines because of the lush abundance of these deliciously sweet fruits.

And speaking of cacao, the chocolate industry in the Philippines is owed largely to the production of this crop.

Davao is composed of four provinces — Davao del Norte, Davao del Sur, Davao Oriental and Davao de Oro — and Davao City. In particular, Davao City produces 81 percent of the annual cacao production of the Philippines. This city alone has the largest area — 20,000 hectares — planted to this high value crop.

One of the most successful mid-sized family businesses in the agri-ecotourism industry that we visited was the top-rated Malagos Garden Resort, founded by the spouses Puentespina 87 years ago.

Malagos stands for “malakas na agos” or “strong water flow” and is situated on the equator, which accounts for the flavorful chocolate made from cacao beans. The process of planting, growing, fermenting, drying, sorting, roasting, and producing chocolate is done on this farm.

This garden resort teems with verdant trees and plants, all well placed to evoke a sense of having been transported to the Garden of Eden, with flying birds and beautiful butterflies highlighted by a show guaranteed to bring smiles to both young and old alike.

Amazingly, I had the impression from Rex Puentespina, who took over from his parents, that the resort was created in phases, attraction by attraction, with no particular blueprint in mind but just gut entrepreneurial reactions to opportunities and a sheer instinct for what makes sense and a lot of fun.

If you ever plan to visit Davao, don’t fail to visit Malagos Garden Resort, some 30 minutes by car from the city which is well worth the travel time. And please make sure to try your hand in making chocolate in the resort’s chocolate museum cum hands-on chocolate factory. It’s guaranteed to be loads of fun and, to top it all, to relish eating your own creation.

Until next week… OBF!

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