Some 13 kilometers north from the city of Kuala Lumpur, the exceptional highway narrowed into a road just enough to signal we were leaving the capital behind. Then limestone spires, sparingly covered in vegetation, convinced us we had arrived at the iconic Batu Caves.

The name, from the Malay word batu meaning rock, was definitely on-the-nose for a fabled destination which carried ancient layers of geology, history, and devotion in one take.

Upon arrival, we were immediately drawn into the glistening icon: the towering image of Lord Murugan, masterfully cast in bronze and gold, who watched over the town. He is the Hindu god of war — though the iconography leaned toward youth rather than glory. His young figure is often depicted beside a peacock, with the vel, the spear said to have been given by his mother, Parvati, the principal Hindu Goddess of power, love, beauty, devotion, and fertility. As we stood by the tallest statue in Malaysia — all of 43 meters — it proclaimed a clear sense of proportion: we were just mere incidentals — Lord Murugan was the star.

We soon found out the pathway beside had 272 steps — I repeat, 272 steps! — painted in unapologetic bands of color, the so-called rainbow staircase has become a favorite topic online, though in person it felt less curated and more lived-in. The steep climb demanded a certain stamina and undeniable patience, especially under the cloudless sky summer heat. Are you ready with your cap, portable fan, bottled ice-cold water and handy towel?