Chef Yohan Da Costa and Chef Rémy Carmignani The Peninsula Manila
LIFE

When French technique meets Japanese precision over dinner in Makati

Alvin Kasiban

At a certain point, luxury hotels stop trying to impress you with chandeliers and begin competing over who can plate a scallop with great precision. The Peninsula Manila understands this well. For two evenings only, 22 and 23 May, from 6:00 pm to 9:30 pm, its restaurant Old Manila becomes the setting for a culinary summit between resident Executive Chef Rémy Carmignani and Yohan Da Costa of Peter of The Peninsula Tokyo.

You won't witness theatricality here. No smoke under glass domes. No pretentious edible foam. Instead, the dinner moves into skills and experience that come from chefs who no longer need to prove they can cook.

Carmignani’s style has always carried warmth beneath precision, while Da Costa approaches French cuisine with the almost surgical calm often shaped by years in Japan’s dining culture.

A poached egg presents itself dressed in truffle and yellow wine sauce, luxurious without trying too hard about it. White asparagus served with hollandaise and caviar, tasting expensive in the most elegant way possible. Seafood is treated with near-religious respect, while roasted Japanese beef comes sharpened with yuzu-kosho and just deep enough to feel vaguely existential.

What makes the collaboration interesting is that the menu never collapses into gimmickry or the usual “East meets West” clichés hotels tend to overpolish for these occasions. Instead, it feels thoughtful, measured, occasionally indulgent, and refreshingly uninterested in being performative.

At PHP 8,200 a head, it is undeniably a special-occasion dinner. But for two nights, The Peninsula’s Old Manila offers something rarer than luxury with two chefs cooking like adults, resisting the urge to oversell the experience, and trusting the food to speak at its own volume.