Forrest Gump once said, “Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get.” For people like chocolatier and CMV Txocolat founder Christian Valdes, life has been like a “box of chocolates,” literally speaking, except he’s the guy who gets to decide what tasty Filipino-inspired flavors you’re going to get. “My hope is that my chocolates become an opportunity to create flavors that are tied to moments and memories that are so special, that we will want to recreate them,” he says. “To allow us to chase the nostalgia we felt at the time.” It is a sweet story that Valdes hopes he gets to tell for a very long time to come. “Food is that refuge that we all crave for. Our common safe place,” he adds.
Tipping point
Working with chocolate was something that, in a way, wasn’t exactly the plan Valdes had for his life. Growing up in San Francisco, USA, he fell in love with Filipino food at an early age — which he says helped keep homesickness at bay. “San Francisco is such a melting pot, so you could easily get to your favorite spot to crush your cravings,” he says. “Some of the places near my house are just good ol’ lutong bahay, just like what you would get here in the Philippines” But it was only when he moved back to Manila that he fully explored the possibility of taking chocolate from a hobby into a thriving business. “The tipping point that made me venture into chocolate was when Manila Polo Club reached out to me and asked us to consign our products with them. I started to see the potential in chocolate making, so I decided to see where it would lead me,” he further explains. He does admit that not all his early experiments were home runs — “We made a margarita-flavored chocolate. That was just horrible,” he says with a laugh. But those days are long gone, and he has turned what was repertoire of chocolate truffles and bars are nothing short of a decadent bite. “Since I have ADHD, chocolate is such a well of information that it holds my attention and stimulates my mind,” Valdes adds.
Driven by a passion for Filipino flavors, this chocolatier is constantly challenging himself with ways to infuse them into his chocolates, more so if it crosses sweet with savory. “I love pushing the boundaries with chocolate when working with these flavor profiles,” he explains. “It doesn’t always automatically register as sweet and savory, but sweetness does help cut down on bitterness, acidity and astringency while also helping enhance certain flavors.” Among the most interesting ones that he has come up with include the likes of Pinoy favorites Sisig and Kare-Kare — “it was a balancing act of texture, umami notes, spice, and also the sweetness of the chocolate. Thankfully, people like it. The Sisig version has become a crowd favorite.” For his truffle boxes (which come in sets of six, 12, and 24), you can choose between Gumamela, Minted Calamansi, Gingered Cerveza Negra, Barako Coffee and Gin Pomelo, to name a few. Each one the result of weeks of research, testing, and eating a lot of chocolate. “My process begins with an idea of a flavor in my head. Then we break it down into its different components and textures, and layer them in different proportions until we get it right,” he points out.
Working with local cacao farmers
There is one more aspect to being a chocolatier that ranks high on Valdes’ list, and that is the opportunity to pass on his knowledge not only to the next generation of chefs and chocolatiers. Working with organizations like TESDA, DoST, The National Food Showdown and the like, he had traveled all over the country conducting workshops and training sessions on working with chocolate. Trips to Kalinga and parts of Mindanao has allowed him the opportunity to touch base with local cacao farmers and communities to discuss sustainable farming practices to help the agricultural supply chain thrive. “I didn’t realize then what a big impact this would have on me. Spending time with the community, I realized how important it is to be part of it, and to be present so we can help preserve it and all the components that make up this industry,” says Valdes.
When he isn’t in testing new flavors in his commissary, Valdes finds himself in the pool training as a competitive swimmer. His days start at dawn working with his coach to get ready for various swim meets that take him to Camiguin, Caramoan, and other parts of the country. In a recent competition, he conquered over 20km of open water over four hours to make it to the finish line. “It’s a great outlet for me, and I love swimming in open water. I’m training in the hopes of doing a much longer swim in a competition abroad next year. Let’s see,” enthuses the chocolatier. Of course, working in the industry, food also plays a big part of his days off. “I like to keep it simple. Steak and rice, and I am a happy camper. A gin and tonic?” he quips. “I do have a few ‘soul dishes,’ like Oyakodon, Champorado and Pho Ga. It changes depending on what’s going on with me in that moment.”
The next fun flavor
For chocolatier Christian Valdes, his story and work with CMV Txocolat goes way beyond just the chocolate. For him, these confections are a way to connect people across cultures. To give the world insight on the Philippines through its flavors — rich, diverse, colorful and yes, oh so sweet. “Our communities, our culture, our history all have their own signature,” he explains. “Each has its own fingerprint, giving soul to the ingredients we use in our food. It is important to be part of that story.” That his chocolates have become part of a food core memory for many is an impetus for him to keep exploring, one Kare-Kare, Calamansi and Sisig truffle at a time. “It’s a win when I can create a message through my food that people can unpack, digest and share,” says Valdes, as though he was dreaming up of the next fun flavor he can create for everyone to try next.