If you’re looking for a love story that’s been simmering since 1894, look no further than the bottom of a cup of dark, velvety chocolate. The legendary Chocolatería San Ginés has become a Madrid institution, famous worldwide for its iconic churros and thick Spanish chocolate.
Back in the day, the Madrid original was so tucked away in a narrow alley near Puerta del Sol that locals nicknamed it “La Escondida.” It was the city’s best-kept secret — a hideout for theatergoers and night owls looking for a “churro-ly” divine experience amid vintage green wood panels and marble tabletops.
Fast forward more than a century, and the “Hidden One” has stepped into the spotlight at The Podium in Mandaluyong. But why did the Trapote family choose Manila as their gateway to the East over heavy hitters like Tokyo or Singapore? According to co-owner Shaan Chainani Suresh, the choice was a “very obvious decision.”
“Well, the Philippines is one of the greatest countries in the world,” Suresh said. “The cultural heritage is very similar to Spanish. Spain and the Philippines have huge and very close ties... they’re two countries where the palates are extremely the same,” he added a day before the store’s official opening on 29 April this year.
The 1894 standard: Importing the magic
While the Manila branch has traded the secretive alleyway for a sleek, minimalist vibe, the flavor remains strictly old-school. If you’re worried about “lost in translation” flavors, don’t be. The mission is to ensure that the Manila treat has the exact same glassy crunch and airy interior as the 19th-century original.
“As you probably tried it, you can see the churro in Manila and the churro in Madrid taste exactly the same,” Suresh said.
This isn’t just luck; it’s a logistical feat. To maintain the “1894 standard,” the brand insists on replicating the Madrid kitchen as closely as possible.
“We ensure it by making sure that the quality of ingredients that we have is exactly the same... The chocolate is imported, the flour is imported, the oil that we use — it all has to pass brand standards,” Suresh said.
Even the hardware is historic; the very machines used in Manila had to be brought in from Spain to meet the Trapote family’s “very, very high quality standard.”
Beyond the churro: A full Spanish feast
Beyond its famous churros, the Podium flagship is evolving into a full Spanish-style café experience that brings the spirit of Madrid to Manila. While customers can still get that “intensely rich, velvety chocolate,” they can now stay for a full meal.
Suresh and co-owner Neelam Gopwani-Chainani have developed a menu featuring everything from classic Gambas and Chistorra to Jamon and Pan con Tomate. There are even “Philippine-exclusive rice bowls” and a Spanish steak with French fries on the horizon.
“I think all of our tapas are very curated to the Filipino palate and what they enjoy,” Suresh said. “We’ve done a lot of testing, a lot of R&D, and we’ve tried to perfect each recipe.”
Global ‘dough-minion’
Manila marks roughly the sixth international stop for the brand, following in the sugary footsteps of Lisbon, Austin, Miami Beach and Buenos Aires. Whether you’re in a historic Spanish passageway at 2 a.m. or a posh Manila mall at noon, the experience remains an emotional and sensory memory.
When you bite into a San Ginés churro, you’re getting more than a sweet pastry. You’re tasting a century of Madrid tradition that has survived republics, wars and the leap across oceans.
As Suresh put it: “Every single country that has a San Ginés, their churros and chocolate need to taste exactly like theirs.”
One bite explains why generations of Madrileños — and now Manileños — keep coming back.
