Set along Bagong Pook Avenue, Lipa, El Cortijo Restaurante built its name as the ultimate destination for those willing to ditch the Metro Manila gridlock for a rustic finca vibe and garden dining. It is a spot that balances Spanish tradition with a bold Latin American edge — sophisticated, yes, but with a soul that feels entirely unforced.

For a limited window, the drive is no longer required. Executive chef Ziggy Segunial has moved his raíces españolas into The Balmori Suites in Rockwell, Makati, where the restaurant is holding a pop-up residency until 10 May. It is a rare chance to experience one of Batangas’ best without the NLEX-SLEX hustle.

A sense of place

One Wednesday late in the morning, DAILY TRIBUNE met the restaurant’s Filipino owner, Patrick Reyes, a jolly man who briefed us on the location of El Cortijo, telling us how the restaurant is a reflection of Lipa’s unique energy.

“I live in Lipa,” he said. “I just fell in love with it. It’s the right mix of BGC (Bonifacio Global City) and rural.”

He described a city that morphs depending on your vantage point — urban enough for the essentials, but open and pastoral at heart. Sitting a thousand feet above sea level, the climate is its own perk.

“From November to February, the weather is cool. I’ve never needed a jacket in January outside of Baguio, Tagaytay and Lipa,” Reyes noted.

That proximity to local farms dictates the sourcing, keeping the kitchen stocked with whatever is freshest nearby.

The ‘food arc’: Spain meets Latin America

At The Balmori Suites’ Chef’s Table, Reyes had us try the restaurant’s six-course menu that feels polished but avoids being stuffy. Reyes described the direction as a “food arc.”

“I’m a Portuguese resident,” he explained. “We started traditional Spanish, but I wanted to build a food arc.”

Instead of staying in the usual Mediterranean lane, Reyes swerved toward Latin America, looking for dishes with a direct genetic link to the Iberian Peninsula. The result is a menu of continuity.

“Take moqueca,” he said. “It’s a Brazilian coconut milk seafood soup. Coconut milk isn’t used in the Iberian Peninsula, so it’s very specific to Brazil. But the way it’s cooked — light and clean — is exactly how a Portuguese chef would handle it.” He later served the soup to us.

The opening act

The meal kicks off with a duo of croquettes that signal the kitchen’s technical skill. The octopus and squid ink version hits with a deep, briny richness, topped with a tender sear of baby squid. The spinach version is a silky, earthy contrast, finished with a crisp tuile.

“All our stuff is homemade,” Reyes said. “To focus on the quality of ingredients and cooking — and to meet the price point I want — what we sacrifice is portion size.”

The starters also debut dishes like the “black and white” fishlings, and these haven’t even launched in Batangas yet. The white is the traditional version, while the black was created for visual contrast.

Then there are the gambas, where Reyes’ obsession with detail came through: plump shrimp served traditional al ajillo-style — sizzling in premium extra virgin olive oil, loads of toasted garlic and a kick of chili.

“I’m very particular about gambas — even the size of the shrimp is dictated. It has to be just right so it cooks properly without overcooking.”

His advice? Put it on bread, soak it in that garlic-infused extra virgin olive oil, and don’t look back.

The rebel ‘bread’ course

An off-menu treat of fried baby squid, or chipirones con espada, proves to be a standout, served alongside snappy green chilies, golden corn chips and a rich, velvety aioli for dipping. The dish, Reyes explained, started as a small act of rebellion.

“They told me I had to serve complimentary bread,” Reyes laughed. “I refused. So instead, we started serving chipirones, so guests get a real first taste of our food.” The inclusion of corn chips is a personal quirk, as Reyes noted he was a fan of the garlic-and-vinegar snacks.

“The baby squid is flown in from Negros,” he added, proving that even the “fun” dishes have serious sourcing behind them.

The Latin pivot

The heart of the menu is the Brazilian seafood stew, a dish that perfectly illustrates that “food arc.” A lush, creamy bowl that hits a perfect note between natural sweetness and savory depth, it is the kind of comfort food that feels like a warm hug.

“This is how we approach Latin American cuisine,” Reyes said. He traced the instinct back to a family staple.

“One of my inspirations is the pochero we cook at home, which actually traces back to a Spanish dish. The way we do it, everything is mixed together.”

In the moqueca, that integration results in total clarity of flavor.

Mains and the sweet finish

The mains showcase bold, coastal techniques, with the cross-cultural dialogue continuing with a Tuna Loin Tataki, flame-kissed with a ruby-red center, served with a zesty Peruvian escabeche that is bright, citrusy and packs a refreshing punch.

This is followed by the wahoo Vera Cruz, a meaty white fish cooked until it flakes easily, smothered in a deep, sun-ripened tomato sauce and served with golden roasted potatoes.

The experience wraps up with a decadent dessert trio featuring a bittersweet chocolate meringue with a perfectly chewy center, a soak-drenched, milky tres leches and buttery alfajores that melt in the mouth.

El Cortijo is indeed a study in dualities — urban and rural, Spanish and Latin, structured and playful. You can catch the pop-up daily at The Balmori Suites (except Tuesdays) from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. through 10 May.