Men's Fashion Week returns to Paris on Tuesday with heightened anticipation as Jonathan Anderson shows his first creations for Dior and Saint Laurent rejoins the official calendar.

Following a flurry of artistic director changes, the spring-summer 2026 menswear season reflects the industry's instability: Milan scaled back its program and London pulled out entirely.

But Paris is doubling down with a packed edition.

"The calendar is quite dense and there's a very good balance between creativity, business, independent labels, large groups and new talent," Alice Feillard, men's buying director at Galeries Lafayette, the landmark Paris department store, told AFP.

Around 70 labels are set to showcase their collections through 30 presentations and 40 runway shows between June 24 and 29.

The most eagerly awaited show is Dior Homme on Friday, marking the debut of Northern Irish designer Anderson, who was appointed head of Dior womenswear in early June just weeks after joining Dior Homme, replacing Maria Grazia Chiuri.

He becomes the first designer since Christian Dior to oversee both the men's and women's lines as well as haute couture at the flagship house, part of the LVMH group.

Following the appointment of Franco-Belgian Matthieu Blazy at Chanel last December, Anderson's move is one of the most notable shake-ups in recent fashion industry reshuffles.

The 40-year-old is widely seen as a fashion prodigy, having transformed the storied Spanish house Loewe into a global powerhouse.

But Loewe will be one of the major absentees from Fashion Week, pending the debut of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, appointed to succeed Anderson. 

Also drawing attention will be Julian Klausner's first menswear show for Dries Van Noten, set for Wednesday.

Appointed in December to succeed the founder Dries Van Noten, who retired last year, the Belgian designer had already made an impression in March with his first women's collection.

Saint Laurent returns

Another highlight is the return of Saint Laurent, which last took part in Men's Fashion Week in Paris in January 2023.

Anthony Vaccarello's new collection will be revealed Tuesday, just hours before Pharrell Williams presents his latest designs for Louis Vuitton.

Historic houses such as Hermes, Kenzo and Issey Miyake will also feature, alongside AMI, Comme des Garcons, Egonlab, Rick Owens and Willy Chavarria, who is returning after his first Paris show in January.

Also noteworthy are the returns of British designers Wales Bonner and Craig Green, and the Paris debut of rising Indian label Kartik Research.

Jacquemus, which made a comeback in January, will close the week with the final show.

Men's Fashion Week will be followed by Haute Couture Week from July 7 to 10, also marked by major artistic leadership changes.

Dior will not participate because Anderson preferred to unveil his first couture collection in January 2026. 

Jean Paul Gaultier will also be absent, with its new creative director, Duran Lantink, set to debut at the women's fashion week in October.

Balenciaga will present the designer Demna's final collection before his departure for Gucci, while Glenn Martens will make his debut at Maison Margiela.

Elsewhere, American designer Michael Rider will reveal his first Celine collection on 6 July in a co-ed show.

by Marine DO-VALE