Conversations about farm-to-plate
In our world now teetering on the edges of ecological collapse, organic farming, conscious food choices and all sustainable choices are no longer a luxury.
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In our world now teetering on the edges of ecological collapse, organic farming, conscious food choices and all sustainable choices are no longer a luxury.
conscious food choices and all sustainable choices is no longer a luxury. It is an urgent act of healing and really the only act forward.
Organic farming goes hand in hand with Slow Food. Choosing organic farming or permaculture that regenerates the soil is an act of sacred reciprocity with the Earth.
The Fatted Calf, a slow food restaurant in Tagaytay.
Slow Food advocates to plant in chemical free soil, a vow to the land that it will not be forced into submission but nurtured to abundance.
Chefs Jayjay and Rhea Sycip.
The challenge and the struggle is real. This is me as a farmer talking, as we continue to prep our land for planting following natural, organic farming processes. My greatest challenge to date has been sourcing non-GMO and heirloom seed varieties. And it has not been easy even amongst our Slow Food community friends. This is my partner Carlos, focused on integrating a natural ecosystem for his fish and crayfish ponds with the most minimal environmental impact in the rainforest. With no synthetic chemicals! This is us, with our hats on as coffee farmers, too, watching the eco-system of soil, water and weather, all contributing to the sustainability of what we are coaxing to grow. A percentage has not survived with the lack of water and dryness of soil, even in a rainforest area.
I think of our struggles and think of the challenges faced by small farmers, who because of sheer necessity to survive choose to grow hybrid commercial cash crops and lose out on planting the truly endemic and rare native crops. Or who make almost nothing because of the exploitation of middlemen who are their only way to reach markets. Government and policy gaps show the lack of support for small and, yes, indigenous farmers to scale up production, the hyper strict food safety regulations designed for big agribusiness also make it so hard to sell to restaurants; and we see the alarming speed at which farm lands are converted to subdivision and commercial use, shrinking the supply of native crops.
We unexpectedly met up with a “book-end” of the food supply chain we are part of. There, too, the challenge and the struggle is real. We chatted up chef Jayjay Sycip at our favorite casual Slow Food restaurant in Tagaytay. This is “The Fatted Calf” Farm House Kitchen where earth and table meet! Popping out to say hello was Slow Food Cavite lead chef Rhea Sycip (Happy Birthday!).
As chefs, they struggle to keep their F & B business running, sourcing for seasonal and heritage ingredients, and fight to keep costs down as food prices increase. They are not alone. I have heard this, too, from many in the F&B industry. With the recent labor wage increase, we wonder how we as entrepreneurs and businesses will manage the economics of all the rising costs. But chatting up was not just about the menu and the wonderful meal we were burping away, as Chef Jayjay toured us to show his composting system, and discussed Chef-Farmer directions they continue to do.
We are battling a BROKEN SYSTEM. It’s not just about battling for better ingredients but a whole system, that reaches down to the soil — of a public conscience that thinks of convenience and profit first above culture, health and sustainability. These are deep, deep issues for our F&B and agricultural practices that are just twisted of any logic on so many fronts; on corruption so endemic in the system; infrastructure gaps and economic pressures; on the lack of vision for our farmers and service people leaving for greener pastures abroad.
For us, we have chosen to advocate for SLOW FOOD. This is an international advocacy, a global grassroots movement we choose to be part of–in lifestyle and practice, in choices we make, in products we consume and how we want to be part of the healing of the earth. Under Slow Food is what they call “Terra Madre,” a global network of food communities with annual events that promote sustainable food practices, support small-scale farmers and producers, and safeguards food diversity.
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It is our commitment, as Slow Food advocates to plant in chemical free soil, a vow to the land that it will not be forced into submission but nurtured to abundance. Or to develop farm-to-table restaurant concepts with menus using unique local ingredients endemic to the region; and even use traditional cooking methods.
As retailers (like in our ECHOstore Sustainable LIfestyle), we choose to carry healthy and organic local products by micro-producers. Meanwhile, everyone is a consumer who has the power for food choices. And as cultural advocates, to help preserve our traditional ingredients and cultural food production.
The Slow Food movement is the stand against Fast Food and all that it represents. It brings together food producers, chefs, communities globally, fostering collaboration through farm to table networks, policy creation and advocacy, plus knowledge sharing and conscious dining initiatives.
Organic farming goes hand in hand with Slow Food. Choosing organic farming or permaculture that regenerates the soil is an act of sacred reciprocity with the Earth. To choose not to use pesticides is not just an agricultural method, or to choose to cook healthy and clean and be fair with your local farmer — these are rooted in a philosophy to help balance ourselves and our earth.
But, wait, the joys are as real as the challenges. Harvesting our coffee beans and organic vegetables and cooking herbs from our rainforest ECHOfarms_Banahaw gives us immeasurable joy.
Soon this will include organic eggs and chicken, plus sustainable fish!
There is the immense pleasure of eating Chef Jayjay’s offerings at the Fatted Calf surrounded by lush greenery made so by their active composting and zero waste management system.
In this visit, we had roasted mushroom soup, crab dip, terrines of ham, fish and sisig (!) with small vinegared pipinitos (yes we are growing these too!), smoked salmon and fried goat’s cheese salad, duck ragu pasta and the luscious tableya chocolate cake of Chef Rhea! And how does one place an emotion on the sense of belonging to a community advocating for something good? That there is comfort in knowing that individual choices are plugged into a bigger community working and moving for change. In our world now teetering on the edges of ecological collapse, organic farming, conscious food choices and all sustainable choices are no longer a luxury. It is an urgent act of healing and really the only act forward.
Note: The first ever Slow Food Terra Madre Asia-Pacific will take place in Bacolod City on 19 to 23 November. Check out the IG page of Slow Food Negros for more info.
The Fatted Calf Farm Kitchen is located in Belarmino Road in Tagaytay City. Call 0917-7892352.
