Bryan Peralta, winner of Gawad Pura Escurdia (silver medal)
A product of the Fashion Institute of the Philippines, Peralta was recognized with his Third Best Collection and Garment Construction Awards. He worked as an intern for the renowned designer Veejay Floresca, who is now based in the United States, before launching his own design studio in Makati, Bryan Peralta Designs, he’s known for creating timeless, minimalist, and modern pieces for evening and bridal wears.
At TernoCon, he was mentored by Tan-Gan. Peralta shared his thoughts on being a promising designer and his passion for the craft of design: “We are standing on the shoulders of giants, the likes of Pacita Longos, Pura Escurdia, Ramon Valera, Joe Salazar most notably, but also of designers of more recent times, everyone who have created the most imaginative and exciting renditions of terno, balintawak, kimona and patadyong, from the beautifully traditional to the excitingly modern.
“As a winner, but also as finalists of TernoCon, our duty is to carry the torch and build on what these ‘imagineers’ have started. There are codes and components, but the language can be ours. Once we learn and respect those codes, then we can take ownership of it and get really creative!
“I’m often drawn to abstract expressionism and minimalist design so when I was doing my research and visiting museums I immediately gravitated towards the works of José Joya, our National Artist for Visual Arts who pioneered Abstract Expressionism in the Philippines in the early 1960s. Specifically, I was hypnotized by the seemingly random doodles of his New York Series found at the National Museum of Fine Arts.
“There is a certain quiet and austerity in them, just random zigzags forming shapes and creating shading and lighting, floating against its yellowing canvas. As an artist, José Joya is known for his gestural paintings and sweeping impastos, but I personally connected more towards his lesser known but equally impactful line drawings which he proliferated during his travels abroad.
“In the book Joya Drawings, I found a lot of his early abstract drawings based on coins, amulets, and artifacts he saw during his museum visits in New York. There were a lot of discs, circles and squares, and talisman-shaped drawings filled with various details, irregular shapes that looked primitive. In lieu of shadows, he used zigzag lines to created depth and form. He wasn’t afraid of colors either. And just as his paintings did, the drawings often exploded out of nowhere on the paper and then swiftly disappeared. All of these dictated the overall feel and look of my collection.
“I wanted to interpret the terno in a way that has been around for a while but in the myriad of ways that the terno has been created in the past, I felt like this could offer a fresh new visual to this singularly iconic Filipino garment, and that is by 3D printing! The idea was to interpret José Joya’s line drawings using different techniques and one of them is embroideries. I had to teach myself how to use an embroidery machine and copy the zigzagging lines he drew to create darker shades and lighter areas in the drawings. I also used waxed cords to add dimension and texture to the fabrics.
“However, I didn’t stop there, I had to think of another technique that could recreate the lines and push the narrative to another level, and that’s when I thought of using a 3D pen! Several iterations later, the idea totally evolved from just embroidering the line drawings on fabric to reimagining the terno sleeves and rendering it in full 3D printing. What I ended up with are three distinct looks that immerse themselves in all of Joya’s drawings using traditional and modern techniques.
“The task was two-fold. First, I knew from the very beginning that what I want to end up with are pieces that combined tradition and innovation to offer a new proposal. Second, I wanted the clothes to really capture Joya’s drawings to look like art. We were asked to draw inspiration from Filipino artists and their art so I would be remiss if I did not even attempt to make the clothes evoke the same feeling I felt looking at Joya’s art. These are what guided me through the whole process.
“The evolution of rendering the line drawings from flat embroideries to raised and textured cord, to 3D printing, it was all inspired by the idea of progression, much like Joya’s quest of finding his own style from being classically trained to discovering his Abstract Expressionist side. All the components like the enaguas, the panuelo, small details like scallop finishings, we made sure to include them in the treatments but done in the language of Joya’s art. Curved scallops turned into zigzags, foliage motifs found on Filipiniana fabrics were simplified into asterisks. It was all thoughtful and considered. The clothes all had to feel easy, often shapeless, and aged like those canvasses. I wanted them to look familiar, but the sleeves would take center stage (or maybe flanking the center because they’re technically on the sides).
“I want to start a small line of Filipiniana of thoughtfully designed terno, balintawak and kimona. There is a renewed love of everything Filipino especially with the youth, and I want to be a part of that. Also, I invite every designer to try joining TernoCon next season. As Filipino creatives, there is nothing more distinguishing than pulling from your own heritage. Fortunately, we have a beautiful one! Mabuhay ang kasuotang Filipino!”