Food and memory: Dishes for the dead

As Filipinos mark All Saints’ Day, food once again becomes an offering of love and remembrance. Across homes and cemeteries, families prepare simple dishes — rice cakes, noodles, and coffee — for those who have passed on, blending faith and tradition in one enduring ritual.

Ancient roots of remembrance

The practice of preparing food for the dead traces back to pre-colonial ancestor veneration, when early Filipinos believed that spirits returned to visit the living. Offerings of food and drink were placed on home altars or graves to welcome them.

When Catholicism spread during the Spanish period, these customs merged with the Church’s observance of All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days. The result was a uniquely Filipino tradition — a fusion of faith and folklore, where prayer and food both serve as acts of remembrance.

The Meaning in Every Meal

Each dish prepared for Undas carries its own story.

Kakanin — sticky rice cakes such as biko, suman, and kutsinta — symbolize the bond between generations. Their glutinous texture represents the hope that family ties remain unbroken, even in death.

Pancit, commonly served at celebrations, signifies long life and continuity, while coffee remains a humble yet personal offering, recalling the familiar habits of those who once shared it. Together, these foods express affection and connection beyond words.

Faith served at the table

In the Filipino home, faith and food have always been inseparable. Cooking becomes a form of prayer, and serving food for the dead becomes a gesture of gratitude and remembrance. Whether through traditional kakanin or a loved one’s favorite modern snack, these offerings reflect a devotion that evolves with time.

While the dishes may change, the message does not — to remember, to honor, and to love.

A tradition that nourishes the soul

As dusk settles over cemeteries and candles illuminate rows of graves, families gather around their offerings in quiet reflection. The air carries the scent of rice, wax, and memory — reminders that Undas is not only a day for mourning, but also for celebrating connection.

For Filipinos, food is more than sustenance. It is a language of faith — a bridge between the living and the departed, and a way of keeping the past warm at the table of the present.