Paris, France — Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri delivered what industry insiders say might be her last collection for Dior on Monday on the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week. 

Models with Mohawk-inspired hairstyles, adorned with feathers woven into their braids, walked the runway in retro draped skirts or short crinolines paired with lace, feathers or long fringes.

Skirts edged with lace and capes resembling flower petals also featured alongside trapeze dresses and coats inspired by the iconic silhouette designed by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior in 1958.

The Spring-Summer 2025 collection was inspired by "the creativity of past centuries" and was intended "to disrupt the order of time," according to the show notes.

The show in the gardens of the Rodin Museum was attended by a star-studded audience, including former model and singer Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, American actors Pamela Anderson and Anya Taylor-Joy and French actor Camille Cottin.

Rumours have been swirling for months that British designer Jonathan Anderson might leave Loewe to take the reins at Dior, with both brands owned by French powerhouse LVMH. 

The speculation has been fuelled by Anderson's absence from recent Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris, and London.

Luxury slowdown

LVMH is set to announce its annual results on Tuesday, figures the industry and analysts will pour over for evidence of how much a global slowdown in the luxury sector has hurt the business.

While Dior's revenues have nearly quadrupled under Chiuri -- from 2.7 billion euros ($2.8 billion) in 2018 to more than nine billion euros in 2023 -- some critics have charged the famed French house risks going stale and is ripe for a shake-up. 

Haute Couture Week began on Monday with Schiaparelli's traditional show, titled "Icarus", which was also inspired by the past.

Corseted models with structured necklines and wide hips, including Kendall Jenner, paraded beneath the gilded ceilings of the Petit Palais.

Haute Couture Week showcases one-of-a-kind, entirely handmade pieces which are primarily intended for red carpets, high-profile events, and galas.

A total of 28 houses will present their collections over the next four days, including Chanel, Armani, Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino.

The latter will show its first Haute Couture collection under Alessandro Michele, creative director since early 2024.

(Source: by Marine DO-VALE, Agence France-Presse)