The narrow streets of Poblacion got a good dose of Siargao sunshine with the recent opening of Alma, a charming little bistro serving up family favorites and classic dishes from Southern Spain. The moment you walk up the steps to the second floor, you seriously question whether you should have already had your bikini and beach bag in tow with its chill tropical vibe. Now if only the view had followed suit! No fear, executive chef Luis Martinez makes sure his dishes shine enough to fill your belly and brighten your day.

It was just about a week after Alma opened its doors, and already it was in full swing. A quick scan of the warmly lit room showed that most of the tables were taken, and diners were neck deep in conversation while enjoying the food and drinks in front of them. Owner Carlo Lorenzana was very warm and welcoming as though we would be dining in his very own home. I asked him if the lights would dim further and the music turned up a notch later in the evening, in keeping with the Poblacion vibe, to which he said, “I think this is as dim as its going to get.” That works for this Tita of Manila!

We settled into our table, and it was time for drinks. Alma offers quite a selection of wines and spirits, but it was the craft cocktails that called out to me. Their common thread? Spanish liqueur and spirits, of course. Tempting as it was to try them all, I settled for the Andalucia Negroni, to start. I do have to say it was alcohol forward, but quite balanced, making it work as an aperitif. Not that my appetite needed much convincing by the time the food arrived. The Blood Orange Margarita, with its play of bitter, sweet and citrusy notes, was a refreshing choice to complement our entrees. This calls for a return trip (or even to Siargao!) to try the other cocktails on offer.

Chef Luis’ menu was reminiscent not only of the restaurant’s original beachside spot in Siargao, but also of the coastal vibe of his hometown, Valencia. From appetizers to dessert, the flavors were clean, showing respect for the ingredients; but deep, seemingly imbued with the familial history of the chef’s own kitchen. The two appetizers we had, the Angus Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio, and the Wild Mushroom Confit and Gruyere Cheese, played well with each other. Both were earthy and luscious, seasoned nicely with a gentle hand. Fried capers and grainy mustard also gave the carpaccio texture and a salty bite. They serve some crusty bread for both, but it works without if you’re going low-carb. Then again, you are in a Spanish restaurant, so I say just go for it. I know I’m eyeing the Roasted Charcoal Octopus for next time around.