ALMA MATTERS

The narrow streets of Poblacion got a good dose of Siargao sunshine with the recent opening of Alma, a charming little bistro serving up family favorites and classic dishes from Southern Spain. The moment you walk up the steps to the second floor, you seriously question whether you should have already had your bikini and beach bag in tow with its chill tropical vibe. Now if only the view had followed suit! No fear, executive chef Luis Martinez makes sure his dishes shine enough to fill your belly and brighten your day.

It was just about a week after Alma opened its doors, and already it was in full swing. A quick scan of the warmly lit room showed that most of the tables were taken, and diners were neck deep in conversation while enjoying the food and drinks in front of them. Owner Carlo Lorenzana was very warm and welcoming as though we would be dining in his very own home. I asked him if the lights would dim further and the music turned up a notch later in the evening, in keeping with the Poblacion vibe, to which he said, “I think this is as dim as its going to get.” That works for this Tita of Manila!

We settled into our table, and it was time for drinks. Alma offers quite a selection of wines and spirits, but it was the craft cocktails that called out to me. Their common thread? Spanish liqueur and spirits, of course. Tempting as it was to try them all, I settled for the Andalucia Negroni, to start. I do have to say it was alcohol forward, but quite balanced, making it work as an aperitif. Not that my appetite needed much convincing by the time the food arrived. The Blood Orange Margarita, with its play of bitter, sweet and citrusy notes, was a refreshing choice to complement our entrees. This calls for a return trip (or even to Siargao!) to try the other cocktails on offer.

Chef Luis’ menu was reminiscent not only of the restaurant’s original beachside spot in Siargao, but also of the coastal vibe of his hometown, Valencia. From appetizers to dessert, the flavors were clean, showing respect for the ingredients; but deep, seemingly imbued with the familial history of the chef’s own kitchen. The two appetizers we had, the Angus Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio, and the Wild Mushroom Confit and Gruyere Cheese, played well with each other. Both were earthy and luscious, seasoned nicely with a gentle hand. Fried capers and grainy mustard also gave the carpaccio texture and a salty bite. They serve some crusty bread for both, but it works without if you’re going low-carb. Then again, you are in a Spanish restaurant, so I say just go for it. I know I’m eyeing the Roasted Charcoal Octopus for next time around.

We opted for the Presa Iberico and Sobresada Paella as our mains. No regrets. The sobresada gave the rice a rich umami flavor, with hints of paprika and spice. Then there was the generous portion of tender iberico pork fanned on top. You knew this was a serious paella because it had the socarrat, done just right, at the bottom. Other variations on Alma’s menu that caught my eye were the Beef Ribs and Wild Mushrooms Paella, and the Prawns Carpaccio Seafood Paella. The Slow-Cooked Truffle Honey Iberico Pork Ribs looked quite tempting, too, but let’s save that for another time!

That said, the superstar of this meal was dessert — Roasted Caramelized Pumpkin. I am not a fan of pumpkin desserts, a.k.a pumpkin pie anything, but roasted pumpkin was quite a revelation. This one came out buttery, mellow and sweet, with the charred parts giving it depth. Served with cinnamon ice cream and a drizzle of wild honey, each bite was different.

By the end of the night, our plates were wiped clean and appetites satisfied. As we sipped the last of our drinks and coffee, Alma had settled into a chill, late-night vibe with soft music playing in the background. It’s far from quiet, but allowed for conversations to be heard above the din. That is a good thing! It also means a repeat is in order. Not only for the delicious food and the cocktails I’ve yet to try, but because each bite brought me back to the beach, and coastlines of sunny Spain.