Designers on culture, ‘awit and laro’

It’s the right time for all of this to be happening — culture, fashion and art

When Filipino elements are brought into the catwalk, designers Zarah Juan, Anne Marie Saguil and Marga Nograles are more than glad that local representation, specifically indigenous textiles, has finally taken the spotlight it rightfully deserves.

In most cases, representation refers to our national dress Barong and Saya, which some only get to wear during special occasions. Moving forward, these designers along with Paloma Zobel, Ito Curata, Rhett Eala, Rajo Laurel and Len Cabili came together to introduce Filipino wear to a younger generation of Filipinos, helping them start early in taking pride in wearing their culture and heritage.

EMBROIDERED wearable art by Anne Marie Saguil of Amarie.

(ABOVE) Paloma Zobel’s take on traditional textiles. (At right) is Marga Nograles’ version of embroidered weaves representing Filipino song and play.

Baro at Sayá, a fashion show spearheaded by UNICEF ambassador Gary Valenciano and interior designer Bambi Mañosa-Tanjutco, will showcase these creations inspired from the Awit at Laro songs on 22 September at the Grand Hyatt Hotel.

Each designer took inspiration from reimagined songs that Gary V, Darren Espanto, Lea Salonga, KZ Tandingan and the TNT Boys recorded for the album.

“We chose designers who are very comfortable in designing Filipino, in using local fabrics and those who work with communities as well,” Mañosa said.

“It’s a reflection of the times that we are going through today. There’s a lot of interest now in wearing our culture or wearing our fabrics. From what I do, it’s more on embroidery so it’s all about the artisanal craftsmanship. It’s the right time for all of this to be happening, culture, fashion and art,” Anne Marie Saguil, Amarie founder and director, told Daily Tribune.

(LEFT) A piece of Len Cabili’s collection. Rhett Eala’s work (right).

Playing was a huge part of Zarah Juan’s childhood, and hearing songs like ‘Patintero,’ ‘Luksong Tinik,’ ‘Sipa’ and ‘Tagu-Taguan’ from Awit at Laro inspired her more.

“This is very close to my heart. I grew up in the province. I experienced playing sa kalye, playing sa bakuran ng mga magulang ko. (I experienced playing in the streets — playing in my parents’ yard). But I don’t see it anymore, especially now that I’m a mother. My son is now 15 years old. I seldom see him play outside. I really support the advocacy because it somehow connects the past and future. I hope kids could continue playing because it’s part of our culture,” she said.

With the pieces they created, Marga Nograles promised that the youth will finally have something that they will be proud to call their own. “I’m so proud that Filipinos are all looking to help support all of these local products. Everyone now wants to wear a story, tell their story and everyone wants to wear their pride. Everyone wants to be proud to be Filipino.”

Saguil’s collection speaks more than just about craftsmanship. “It doesn’t have to be all ethnic. I think the fact that Filipino designers are making clothes, that’s enough.”

FASHION consultant Rajo Laurel sought help from his nieces and nephews in designing his collection for the show.

For Zarah, wearing the pieces can be compared to someone realizing who they finally are. “Slowly we are having this national identity which I think we didn’t have before. Sometimes I attend conventions abroad and I’ll see delegates from Seoul and Bangkok wearing their traditional attire. Then delegates from the Philippines are wearing suits. Never mong makikilala who we are (You would never recognize who we are). My mantra is that if I’m not wearing a dress or a shoe designed with Filipino fabrics, I should wear at least a bag or a borloloy. It’s a start. Hindi kailangan head to toe. It’s a conscious effort to include the community every time. A simple touch, but one step at a time.”

This year’s Baro at Sayá fashion show is a fundraiser for UNICEF, Museo Pambata’s renovation project, and Tukod Foundation’s “Pamato sa Pagtuturo” Awit at Laro workshops for teachers.

“I notice that the younger kids now are looking to go beyond themselves. They want to help, they want to support like my children for instance who are curious to learn more about the tribes that we work with, the women that we are able to help,” Nograles said. “I would love to encourage all the youth to come together as they are to do a little something for our country.”

Juan concludes, “I hope it brings out the strong message for the youth to not forget to look back. And by looking back does not mean we are not progressing. When you look back, you have baon for you to move forward strongly because you know who you are as a person, as a Filipino. With our collection, we hope to have that message to everyone to the young ones and the old ones to celebrate that part of our culture.”