When Gallery Vask first opened, it quickly cemented its status in Manila as a culinary contender. Soon, Chele Gonzalez and his team brought their degustation-only restaurant to the big leagues, with guest shifts across the world, and two 50 Best Restaurants in Asia titles to their name.

When news of their closure and subsequent renovation came around, it begged the question why. Why close a place sometimes known as the Philippines’ best restaurant? Why fix something that isn’t broken?

But now, weeks after their reopening, it is evident that this was a necessary rebirth.

The new Gallery has the same spirit, the same commitment to quality and values, but in a space that makes it much more accessible to many.

There is a bar where you can order spectacular drinks (like a gin and tonic that tastes exactly like our childhood candy Butterball) by Kalel Demetrio, known for his highly experimental Filipino cocktails.

The new interior is light, bright and decorated mostly in wood, with accents by Filipino artists such as Kenneth Cobonpue.

And the food, most importantly, are separated into bites, small plates, mains and desserts, so you can eat as much as you like, as little as you want, or create your own tasting menu.

The dishes at Gallery still very much encapsulate Gonzalez’s vision, but are fine-tuned the way only he and his team can achieve. There are so many great things to choose from, so it will be hard to make any recommendations.

A warm dish called pearls and clams introduces little pearls of sago in a salty, oceany broth, and is cooked just like risotto. The clams provide texture, and the barely-cooked river prawns are succulent. An intense chocolate mole sauce serves as a sauce for an herbaceous, plate of sorghum covered in something akin to a pesto, with tender chicken breasts and their crispy skin. Chawanmushi is made umami with dashi made from tinapa, and is bright purple, thanks to the ube in it. Even small bites, like brioche with bone marrow, or adlai crisps with longganisa, and tiny empanaditas filled with sisig, display a distilled version of Gonzalez’s signature cooking.

Gallery by Chele seems like the right evolution for the former Vask. It shines a light on their message, and the food is better than ever.

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