Lance Ernest Rubio, who grew up in a remote barrio in the province of Isabela within the region of Cagayan Valley, once borrowed an old, dated Vogue magazine from his high school teacher. And it was then when he discovered couture pieces by Alexander McQueen.
Throughout the following year, he scrounged up his savings to purchase back catalogues from local bookstores. The very first brand-new issue he ever bought was L’Officiel Philippines. By some twist of fate, his first print feature as a fashion designer would appear in the same magazine years later!
Lance’s beginnings were far from the glamorous ateliers he once pored over in glossy pages. His parents ran a family business centered on duck eggs. “We have a balutan, and we also produce salted eggs.”
“I was just a simple kid who came from a small barrio in up north in Isabela,” he recalled. “But I guess the universe gave me a better dream. Now, I am a fashion designer whose works are deeply rooted in storytelling.”
Soon after his high school graduation, he enrolled in BS Biology at University of the Philippines (UP) Baguio. A year in, the fit felt wrong. “Then, I had a realization that it’s not for me.” A gap year followed, and with it, a turn toward design.
He joined the Fashion Design and Merchandising program at De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde, only to pause again when the pandemic forced learning onto screens. “I decided to take a leave of absence for a year to rest and wait for the return of face-to-face classes. I really wanted to learn the course, and not just through the screens of my laptop or iPad,” he admitted.
Lance interned under Neric Beltran, whose clientele includes some of the country’s most visible performers. “He was very welcoming and warm. I learned a lot from him. He became a mentor. Oh yes, he even cooked food for us!”
“I was able to appreciate the importance of time management and dealing with big time clients since his brand mostly catered to celebrities such as Vice Ganda,” he shared.
Soon, his own brand RUBIO emerged as a name anchored in storytelling and intimacy. “Our main philosophy: clothes we create are a collaboration between the client and the designer. We make certain once they don the dress, they will feel comfortable and confident.”
The brand leans into custom garments, drawing from couture traditions without adapting them for effect. “I am into custom pieces. We integrate couture techniques. We do a lot of hand sewing in order to finish one creation. That’s something that a sewing machine can’t replicate,” he opined.
One of his most familiar body of works is Para Kay Nanay. “It’s a very personal collection which shares a story of a loving mother who experienced a lot of ups and downs not just as a mama, but also as a woman. I crafted a wedding gown for my mom because she never got to wear one. It’s a continuation of a piece I made for my textile class which gave me my first features.”
When asked about favorite materials, he immediately answered: “Lately, I love using crepe fabric. It has a good flow and fall that can also be used for structure and drapes. I also love the matte finish of crepe, it is super versatile. This is not to mention the availability of the variety of colors!” His material sources remain largely local, with plans to establish overseas links.
His favorite work tools reveal a preference for the tactile. “I love using a thimble! Very underrated. Since I hand stitch, it protects my fingers.”
Inspiration comes from home. “In my youth, I admired how my mom dressed up. I love seeing her wear flowy dresses. Now, in addition to my mom, I like how Mimiyuuuh expresses herself through fashion. She can be chic and contemporary too.”
Lance’s dream itineraries are less about travel, and more about pilgrimage. “Oh I would love to visit haute couture houses, especially to inspect their archives. First, it would be Balenciaga — especially during Cristobal’s era — then Schiaparelli, Dior, Chanel and McQueen.”
Pressure, for Rubio, is managed through mundane activities. “I rest. I am constantly reminded by my mom to always be grounded and stay humble. That also helps me with pressure.” And when the schedule tightens… “I sleep! (laughs) But I also enjoy walking. I live in Makati where there are good areas to stroll. I do that when I wanna grab a cup of coffee.”
Let’s listen to more of the fledgling designer’s thoughts:
On design process
“The design process has ever since been my favorite. I love imagining how the outcome would look like. In my designs, I sketch where it is fully rendered so that my client can easily envision it.”
On favorite colors
“For my collection, I preferred neutral colors because I utilized natural dyes. For my brand and clients, it depends on their specific event. Though, I also suggest which color fits their skin tone and vibe. But my all-time favorite is white. I love creating wedding gowns.”
On collabs
“I am grateful that I already nurtured good connections with various stylists. Some were pullouts from existing pieces. I likewise created some custom items for Vogue Philippines. It was a collaboration between the magazine and me. They pitched, I designed.”
On dream client
“I wanna make clothes for chic women. It would be a dream to dress up Bea Valdes, the editor in chief of Vogue Philippines.”
On advice to aspiring designers
“Avoid overthinking! It translates through your works. Be inspired with subjects close to your heart and personality so that it will be easier and more fun for you to design.”
On future plans
“I wanna have a bigger collection. A combination of couture pieces and trickled up ready-to-wear pieces. Then I would love to collaborate with local up-and-coming accessory designers.”