I felt like I was in an episode of White Lotus when, in early December, I climbed a 19-seater Dornier twin-turboprop aircraft bound for Balesin. I bumped my head as I hunched to enter the door, but no amount of embarrassment could contain my excitement. All I could hear in my head was the percussion-heavy White Lotus theme — frantic vocals, tribal drums, flutes.
This was not just a leisure trip. We were flying to an exclusive, members-only private island for “Tastemakers,” a three-date dining series featuring the country’s most renowned chefs at two Balesin Key destinations: Balesin Island and Balesin Pines.
Balesin Island
Located off the coast of Polillo, Quezon, Balesin Island sits on Lamon Bay, opening eastward into the Philippine Sea. In less than an hour, our charter plane dipped below the clouds, revealing the island. This time, the soundtrack in my head was John Williams’ Jurassic Park score, and the island before me felt like Isla Nublar.
Developed and operated by Alphaland Corporation, the island is accessible only to members and their endorsed guests. At the time of our visit, there were roughly 2,500 members. Covering 424 hectares, Balesin is vast — and during my four-day stay (extended from three after we were stranded by rough seas and unsafe flying conditions), I barely saw anyone. I was stunned when, on a stormy night, the spa — sleek modern cubes scattered like something from a sci-fi film — was fully booked.
Unlike Boracay, where crowds are constant, Balesin feels as if you own the place. Tranquil and cozy, it carries an untouched, virgin-island atmosphere. Guests move around by coaster, buggy, or tourist jeep, winding through coconut palms, coastal trees, shrubs, and mangrove areas.
Villages
The island is organized into seven themed “villages,” each inspired by international destinations including Mykonos, Bali, St. Tropez, Phuket, and Toscana. The European villages face the sunset; the Asian villages greet the sunrise. Our weekend was rough and windblown, and Mykonos sustained minor damage as Typhoon Erwan passed through.
Within each village are hidden gems — restaurants, bars, and dining venues reflecting their respective cuisines. Upon arrival, we had lunch at Costa del Sol, a coastal Spanish restaurant housed in a Spanish colonial–revival structure with rounded arches framing the blue-green sea. Heavy timber coffered ceilings and exposed beams completed the Mediterranean atmosphere.
We then headed to Toscana Village, where we would be staying. As the coaster approached, you truly feel transported to an Italian country estate: arched doorways, textured stone walls, terracotta accents, and natural wood finishes. Thick walls and terracotta roof tiles evoke rustic Mediterranean durability. The only thing missing were cypress trees lining the roads like those in Tuscany.
My room was huge and dark, evoking a monastery-like stillness — as if I were a novitiate, despite not being Catholic. I half-joked that it could inspire a horror film. I’ve stayed in many modern five-star hotels, but this felt old in a refreshing way, as if I had stepped into another world.
That evening, we went to Bali Village for sunset cocktails by the sea. The sky melted into deep gradients of orange and pink as I sipped my drink, before we were led to The Bali Warung — easily one of my top food experiences. Indonesian flavors followed: laksa, pad thai, nasi goreng, and sate ayam.
The next morning, ahead of the main Tastemakers event, we had a French breakfast at St. Tropez, marked by light-colored structures and an open, breezy layout. Pain au chocolat, a towering plate of French toast drenched in maple syrup, and salmon Benedict made for a decadent start.
Self-sustaining island
“If the apocalypse arrived,” I told Mykee, our island guide. “and we got stuck here, we’d survive — like Robinson Crusoe, but luxury.” This was after he explained how the island grows its own food: shrimp and lobster farms, a salt farm, edible flowers — some of which two-Michelin-star chef Josh Boutwood had picked earlier for his own “Tastemakers” dinner back in November.
Solar-powered and self-sustaining, Balesin is upscale but never loud or flashy. That is its greatest strength. It is quiet luxury — cozy, homey, tranquil. Not intimidating, just deeply relaxing. Whether looking out at the sea, or riding along rough winding roads guided at night by low solar bollard lights glowing softly through the jungle, the effect is heavenly. Unpretentious. A place for rest, where God-made nature meets refined, international architecture.
And then there’s the food. Because what is a luxury island if the food doesn’t measure up?
Tastemakers Night
I was snoring when my phone began buzzing — ”Tastemakers,” 7 p.m. Cocktails had started at 6, so I missed the tête-à-tête and arrived just in time for chef Jorge Mendez’ feast, the weekend’s featured chef.
Since the inaugural Michelin awards in the Philippines in late October, chefs have become rock stars overnight. Mendez, known for his Michelin-selected, concept-driven MÖDAN, interprets Japanese culinary principles through contemporary technique and a global palate. We gathered at the Italian restaurant in Toscana Village for the dinner.
Just in his mid-30s, Mendez — the father of teen Pinoy Big Brother housemate Caprice — served some 60 guests that night. It was a sold-out night.
Mendez’ menu
The opening course delivered warmth and depth: silky taro foam melting into a clear yet intensely savory bone marrow consommé. Plump fish lips nuggets added gelatinous richness, sharpened by wasabi beet cream. Miso caramel brought sweet umami, while gyofun left a clean, mineral snap.
The next dish was cool, bright, and precise—and still haunts me. Sweet gambero rosso was served raw, its softness offset by konnyaku steeped in katsu-dashi. Jicama tsukemono cut through with crunch, while nira oil and Tosa yuzu perfumed the plate, joined by a harvest salad.
Then came the tebasaki. The chicken wing shattered on the bite, revealing king crab enriched with whipped uni. At the chef’s request, we closed our eyes and swirled the wing in glossy shoyu-zuke egg yolk before biting in. Japanese-style focaccia followed — pillowy and soaked in seaweed butter, finished with sweet-salty ebi-oboro.
The wagyu course arrived rich and smoky. Smoked A5 wagyu released fat and aroma immediately, paired with aged scallops and popping ikura. Chewy dango, sweet sukiyaki-style lotus root, and a bowl of sea collagen nabe rice tied everything together in deep umami.
Dessert closed the night: crisp buckwheat pavlova that made everyone gasp, layered with ripe mango and floral osmanthus jelly, lifted by Camembert chantilly. Aerated white chocolate dissolved quickly, leaving a soft sweetness — and a small ache from how fleeting it all was.
It was the trip of a lifetime, no exaggeration. Food nourishes the soul and great food creates memories. Balesin is, without question, a culinary destination — worth the detour.
When we returned home, more news arrived. Next up: Chele Gonzalez, now also Michelin-starred, will cook on 7 March — this time at Balesin Pines, a mountain retreat 1,400 meters above sea level in Itogon, Benguet.
Take me there.