In the province of Bataan, locals have a tradition of eating suman alongside dinuguan during the Christmas season. This pairing has become a staple of Noche Buena, making it an unlikely combination for those living outside the province.
Yet for Bataeños, suman and dinuguan remain a cherished culinary tradition, valued for their contrasting flavours and deep regional roots.
Unlike versions found in other parts of the Philippines, Bataan’s take on these dishes highlights a specific balance of taste. The dinuguan, or pork blood stew, is prepared sweet rather than sour or savoury, which is more common elsewhere.
To offset the sweetness of the stew, Bataan’s suman, or rice cake, is made with more salt, instead of the typically sweet or neutral flavour seen in other regions.
The history of this pairing is deeply embedded in both pre-colonial and colonial practices. Suman is considered one of the oldest Filipino rice cakes, predating Spanish colonisation, and was used by early Filipinos as an offering for good health and abundant harvests.
Dinuguan, meanwhile, is rooted in “nose-to-tail” cooking, a pre-colonial practice driven by the need to use every part of a slaughtered animal, including the blood.
Residents in Bataan also note that their sweet dinuguan is crafted to last up to two months without spoiling, reflecting a historical emphasis on food preservation.
Beyond taste, the pairing carries cultural significance. For many Bataeños, suman and dinuguan are more than just a meal; they symbolise regional identity and community, often regarded as the centrepiece of holiday celebrations.
Local festivals and traditions, particularly in towns such as Orani and Samal, continue to showcase these recipes as part of Bataan’s intangible cultural heritage.
As fast-food chains expand and ready-made Noche Buena feasts become more accessible without the need for home preparation on 24 December, older generations hope the tradition of serving suman and dinuguan will endure among future generations in Bataan.