In an article in the New York Post entitled “Retro Jell-O salad, gelatin dishes are all the rage again in shocking revival,” the humble Jell-O salad and its savory ancestor, aspic, are shaking up American kitchens and even getting a glossy, fine-dining revival, according to the article.
Aspic originally began in medieval kitchens as a way to preserve meat using collagen-rich broths that solidified into savory jelly; it later evolved into a mid-century American status symbol, thanks to pastel Jell-O molds.
Jell-O is made primarily from gelatin, a protein derived from animal collagen found in skin, bones and connective tissues. It also contains a sweetener (like sugar or aspartame), artificial flavors and food coloring. When mixed with boiling water and then cooled, the gelatin forms a gel that traps water, giving it a jiggly texture.
Jell-O may also refer to a homemade version of the popular dessert that maximizes the health benefits of its primary ingredient, gelatin, which is a protein derived from animal collagen.
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Unlike commercial, pre-packaged Jell-O that often contains high sugar and artificial ingredients, homemade “collagen jello” uses unflavored gelatin or a pure collagen supplement powder combined with healthier ingredients like fruit juice to create a nutritious snack.
“Collagen-rich food like gelatin, bone broth and fish skin have the potential to improve skin and joints. However, current studies show that benefits are still at small to moderate levels. And in order to reap the benefits, they need to be taken with the right context,” said Filipino Maui Sugay-Lopez, a PN Level 1 certified nutrition coach, an ultra-marathoner, and a mother of three. ”Gelatin works best when taken pre-workout with Vitamin C. The gelatin provides our bodies with the key amino acids to build collagen, while the vitamin C activates the production. Exercise gives the go-signal to strengthen and repair. For bone broth, it’s really very nourishing, but its collagen amount is inconsistent.”
Revivals on your plate
“In the 1950s, gelatin dishes signified modernity, abundance and a hint of status tied to refrigeration and convenience,” Jessica Randhawa, a chef and owner of the food blog The Forked Spoon, said.
She said the current fascination with aspic and Jell-O salad mirrors the revival of homemade bone broth and cooking with beef tallow.
“It is a return to texture, thrift and whole-ingredient techniques,” she said.
Now, home cooks are reviving the trend on social media. They’re sharing Jell-O salads studded with marshmallows and fruit and savory jelly creations packed with tomato, crab meat, clams, olives and even beef tongue — often topped with mustard or served alongside crackers.
Chefs are bringing it back, too.
In London, chef Matthew Ryle reimagined the traditional French oeuf en gelée — egg in aspic — with rich stocks and soft-boiled eggs, as The New York Times recently reported. The dish has become so popular that his restaurant sells sweatshirts emblazoned with the French phrase.
For some, the aspic revival is as practical as it is nostalgic.
Australian chef Chris Yuille told the outlet that the jelly-like dishes use inexpensive, collagen-rich cuts that would otherwise go to waste.
As millennials and Gen X rediscover “grandma food” such as meatloaf, casseroles and Spam, the wave of nostalgia has made room for gelatin-based “food art” trending across TikTok, Instagram and Pinterest.
Shimmering aspic creations garnished with edible flowers have tapped into a growing fascination, especially with the texture. “In the West, the only textures we really like are crisp, tender, smooth and crunchy,” Yuille told the Times. “Jelly is kind of a spooky experience to us.”
The collagen-packed dishes can also carry skin and joint health benefits. These remained meals are common in French and Eastern European cooking, such as Polish jellied pig’s feet or Russian kholodets, and even appear in Chinese soup dumplings, according to Tasting Table.
Gelatin and collagen-rich food may be beneficial to joints and skin, but it would be wise not to rely on them alone for major improvements.
“From a nutritional standpoint, collagen and gelatin are nearly identical,” added Maui Lopez. “In fact, much of the scientific research on the benefits of collagen has actually been done using gelatin. Gelatin could be a low-risk, inexpensive dietary addition to your menu. Especially for those who prefer whole food options vs supplements.”