If there is a common thread that runs through life’s memorable moments, it would be food. Food that has been shaped by family, by history, by lack, by abundance, by places seen and lives yet to be lived. MatNam, which means “where flavors meet” in Korean, is the ongoing pop-up over at Balmori Suites’ Chef’s Table, running until 1 June. It hopes to tell quite a few stories — through the food of Your Local’s executive chef Patrick Go and four guest chefs from the hit Korean show, Culinary Class Wars.
Here’s the easy sell — in this collaboration, there’s going to be a lot of Korean food. Which is pretty much local over here, as Filipinos just love it. But there is a caveat. It’s not quite what you’d expect. This is Korean food that is infused with the stories of the chefs who created them. Authentic, and full of soul.
Beyond that, chefs Young Sook Lee, Jihyung Choi, Kisu Bang and Byung Mook Kim are all bringing their culinary A-game, as alumna of the hit Netflix show, to MatNam. “I’ve always admired the chefs from Culinary Class Wars — they each have a distinct signature style,“ shares chef Pat. “We’re eager to see how their dishes will resonate with the Filipino palate, alongside Your Local’s menu.” He hopes that this will open doors for more collaborations like this, which came together through Charles Paw of Tasteless Food Group, with other chefs on the show.
In two of the three “episodes” of the MatNam pop-up, which is Go and Your Local’s third one at Balmori, each dish felt like a trip into the different home kitchens, and then some. In the first episode, chef Young Sook Lee’s JapChae was a revelation — well-balanced and peppery, laden with crisp vegetables, with just a hint of salt. It lacked that cloying sweetness that we’ve become used to with this noodle dish. The Gochujang Sauce Chicken by chef Jihyung Choi was umami-forward, with deep spicy notes. And that piece of crispy chicken skin right on top.
Taking the helm on the Korean food side until 1 June is Chef Byun Mook Kim, who has been dubbed as the “Yakitori King” by way of his Michelin Guide-rated restaurant Yakitori Mook. And he does not disappoint. His Chicken Yakitori was tender, and mild in flavor, making it the perfect vehicle for the squid ink salt it was served with, giving it a lot of depth. This was followed up by Dweji Galbi Jjim — a rich deconstructed pork ribs stew. Chef Byun takes inspiration from the time it takes to perfectly prepare Korean food, paying respect to the fermentation process of ingredients like Gochujang and kimchi.
That said, Go and his team of chefs served up a menu that stood toe-to-toe with, if not sometimes surpassed, his Korean counterparts. As expected, he delivered on a mélange of rich Asian flavors that Your Local has become known for.
“Everyone knows we love infusing Asian flavors into our dishes,” he points out. “I’m also a fan of Korean food. I love their jjigae’s. So this collaboration was perfect.”
On the stellar list were the Halibut in a luscious Rendang Sauce (using a guinamos from Go’s home province Bacolod), or the crowd-favorite MSG (Mantou Toast, Shiitake, Gorgonzola) and the Roasted Prawns with Torched Mentaiko and a Soy Brown Butter Sauce. But the biggest hit had to be the Palabok Rice, which was an ode to his love to soup on rice, and the beloved pancit dish. Yes, there was a lot going on in every bite, but this was a party you wanted to be at.
What the MatNam pop-up proves is reason why Asian food is the bias of many foodies, if not almost everyone. Each spoonful comes with a story. Where a page is turned when that hint of spice hits the back of your tongue, or with that unctuous bite of perfectly cooked fish and a taste of its rich sauce. Much like how Young Sook Lee’s JapChae captures her perfect picture of Korean food. Or how Byung Mook Kim is fascinated by the idea of time — as it pertains to Korean ingredients — and made it the core of his food philosophy. Or how chef Pat likes to take the flavors dancing in his head, and fearlessly lay them down on the plate. That’s how all the dishes from either side of the MatNam menu felt. Combine it with the stories moving from one person to the next around the table, it becomes a collective, and rather delicious, experience. And that’s one more story to tell at another time.