Costumes by Ehrran Montoya — ‘Light and Awakening’ for MUPh Benguet Maiko Ibarde, ‘Shadow Work (Ego Death)’ for MUPh Quezon Province Maria Ahtisa Manalo, and ‘Grounding and Rebirth’ for MUPH Siniloan, Laguna, Yllana Marie Aduana. Photographs courtesy of Brian Mamawan, Seven Barretto and Advan Ramirez
LIFE

Puksaan: The battle of the best National Costume designers at the Miss Universe Philippines 2025 pageant

The theme centered on the characters and creatures of Philippine folklore and mythology.

C. Mendez Legaspi

This year’s Miss Universe Philippines (MUPh) competition, called the “Puksaan (annihilation) Edition,” was indeed a bloodbath. No wonder then that the national costume showcase, held at Okada Manila on 30 April, was just as blood-curdling.

For its National Costume segment, the theme centered on the characters and creatures of Philippine folklore and mythology. Give any project brief to the Filipino creative, and you get artistry that’s preternatural and otherworldly — the more outrageous, the more astonishing; the more macabre, the more marvelous.

It was hardly a surprise that some of the best national costume designers also came out to join the fray. Axel Que, who created the breathtaking “Bakunawa” costume for Beatrice Luigi Gomez on her way to a top five finish at Miss Universe 2021, made the costumes for MUPh Bohol and MUPh Oriental Mindoro.

Edwin Uy, perhaps the most decorated national costume designer of them all, started his winning streak in 2012 with his Ifugao-Inspired dress, which was worn by Nicole Schmitz and won the Best in National Costume at the Binibining Pilipinas Pageant. In 2014, he won his first international Best National Costume award with an ensemble worn by Hilarie Parungao at Miss World. In 2015, Uy won for the Philippines three Best National Costume awards: At Mister International, worn by Reniel Villareal; at Miss Scuba International, worn by Cindy Madduma, who also won the title; and at Miss Grand International, worn by Parul Shah.

In 2016, CJ Hirro won Best in National Costume at Miss Global. Uy’s “Pintados” creation placed in the Top Three National Costumes at the Reina Hispanoamericana 2017, worn by title holder Wynwin Marquez. He won Best National Costume, worn by Mister Philippines Daumier Corilla at Manhunt International 2020.

Ehrran Montoya, who won Best National Costume at MUPh 2024, worn by Jet Hammond of Southern California, also made the national costume for Dia Mate on her way to winning the Reina Hispanoamericana 2025 title. His trilogy of costumes was worn by MUPh Benguet, MUPh Quezon Province and MUPh Siniloan, Laguna, at the 2025 MUPh.

Kennedy Jhon Gasper won Best National Costume at Miss Universe 2021 for his “Mmanwu,” worn by Miss Nigeria. This year, he created the costume for MUPh Isabela.

At Miss Universe 2024, Manny Halasan won the award for his “Hiraya” costume, worn by Chelsea Manalo. This year, he created a costume for another Bulakenya.

Patrick Isorena collaborated with Miss Texas R’Bonney Gabriel for her award-winning state costume at Miss USA 2022. On her way to winning Miss Universe 2022, she also wore Isorena’s creation, “Woman on the Moon.” This year, he made the costumes for MUPh Caloocan, Manila and Liliw, Laguna.

“Maraming nagsasabi na Halloween/scary ang costumes ng MUPh this year (Many said that the costumes of MUPh this year are Halloween/scary). The girls were given a theme of Filipino mythical creatures. Our stories of horror, fantasy and magical creatures came from our ancestors at nakatatanda. We, costume designers, took inspirations from those stories and made it come to life. Let’s appreciate our diverse culture. Also, let your kids know na mayroong istorya ng that we have stories of) tyanak, walo, engkanto, diwata, dyosa, tikbalang, santelmo at marami pang iba (and many others),” stated Isorena in a Facebook post.

After the coronation night on 2 May at the SM Mall of Asia Arena, the five Best in National Costume winners were announced. Caloocan’s Allyson Mei Ee won first place for her “Walo” costume by Isorena, followed by Ifugao’s Valerie Claire West for her “Enkanto” costume by Renel Suarez. Third place went to Iloilo’s Angeline Cordero Kailani for her “Santelmo” costume by Ruffy Itaas. At fourth place was Sultan Kudarat’s Chelsea Fernandez for her Princess Lawanen-inspired costume by Jearson C. Demaviva, and fifth place went to Baguio’s Gwendoline Meliz Soriano for her “Lampong” costume by Jorick Lopez Limpag.

Here are the creations by the country’s most award-winning costume designers:

Axel Que’s costume, ‘Alwina,’ for Miss Universe Philippines Bohol Tyra Goldman.
‘ANG MAMBABARANG,’ Axel Que’s costume for Miss Universe Philippines Oriental Mindoro Rechel Hoco.

Axel Que for Miss Universe Philippines Bohol and Oriental Mindoro

On the costume, “Alwina,” for Miss Universe Bohol Tyra Goldman, Que said, “From the lush, shadowed canopies of a forgotten realm emerges a character born of Mulawin, the 2004 fantaserye that gave flight to a race of noble, winged beings. Hidden deep within the myth-woven forests of the Philippines, these airborne sentient beings blend pop-culture flair with folkloric soul, their essence echoing the ethereal diwata, ancient guardians of nature.

“Crafted entirely from a cascade of pristine white feathers, it evokes the purity and transcendence of a celestial being — each plume meticulously layered to create a voluminous silhouette that seems to float, as if kissed by the breath of the heavens.

“The metallic elements — sculpted into intricate, armor-like structures — cinch the waist and adorn the bodice, their hard, reflective surfaces catching the light with a fiery intensity. The gold claws that extend from the hands, encrusted with glittering embellishments, add a feral edge, hinting at the duality of beauty and danger, fragility and strength — a creature both angelic and untamed.”

On “Ang Mambabarang” for Miss Universe Philippines Oriental Mindoro Rechel Hoco, he shared this verse: “Sa bulong ng gabi, ako’y gising./Hindi mo ako basta mababaling./Lakas ko’y lihim, titig ay apoy./Ako ang takot na hindi mo kayang itaboy (In the whisper of night, I am awake./You cannot easily bend me./My strength is hidden, my gaze is fire./I am the fear you cannot drive away).”

‘IBONG ADARNA’ for Miss Universe Philippines Dipolog Jazzle Shannen Iba.

Edwin Uy for Miss Universe Philippines Dipolog

The Ibong Adarna, the legendary bird whose song enchants and heals in the classic korido, soars in Miss Universe Philippines Dipolog’s cultural showcase. Accroding to Uy, “This costume captures its mythical beauty through dazzling feathers, radiant hues and graceful, flowing forms. Every detail reflects Dipolog’s heritage and the timeless magic of Filipino folklore.”

Costumes by Ehrran Montoya — ‘Light and Awakening’ for MUPh Benguet Maiko Ibarde, ‘Shadow Work (Ego Death)’ for MUPh Quezon Province Maria Ahtisa Manalo, and ‘Grounding and Rebirth’ for MUPH Siniloan, Laguna, Yllana Marie Aduana.

Ehrran Montoya for Miss Universe Philippines Benguet, Quezon Province and Siniloan, Laguna

On “Light and Awakening” for MUPh Benguet Maiko Ibarde: “Bathed in illumination, this creation channels Kuyapon, the Spirit Goddess of Benguet. Her presence marks the soul’s first stirring — the dawning of awareness. Radiant and resplendent, she guides the seeker toward truth and higher consciousness.”

On “Shadow Work (Ego Death)” for MUPh Quezon Province Maria Ahtisa Manalo: “A haunting embodiment of the tiktik, this dark yet powerful costume delves into the soul’s descent into the shadows. Representing ego death, it symbolizes the painful unraveling of illusions and attachments — the necessary destruction of the false self to make room for transformation. It is here that the seeker confronts fear and integrates darkness into light.”

On “Grounding and Rebirth” for MUPh Siniloan, Laguna, Yllana Marie Aduana: “Rooted in the sacred earth, the final costume honors Maria Makiling, the forest guardian and earth deity. She grounds the awakened soul, teaching presence, balance, and harmony with nature. As the final phase, she is the return to the self — whole, healed and home.”

‘IKAPATI’ by Kennedy Jhon Gasper for MUPh Isabela Jarina Kumari Sandhu.

Kennedy Jhon Gasper for Miss Universe Philippines Isabela

On “Ikapati” for MUPh Isabela Jarina Kumari Sandhu: “A tribute to Isabela, the heart of the Philippines’ agricultural pride, this national costume channels the divine energy of Ikapati — the Tagalog goddess of fertility and cultivated land.”

‘The Missing Piece Returns: A Radiant Redemption + Himagsik ng Tala: The Starborn Radiance of Hanan’ by Manny Halasan for MUPh Bulacan Franchezca Pacheco.

Manny Halasan for Miss Universe Philippines Bulacan

On “The Missing Piece Returns: A Radiant Redemption + Himagsik ng Tala: The Starborn Radiance of Hanan” for MUPh Bulacan Franchezca Pacheco: “Once set aside, now reborn — this year, the National Costume Competition becomes the stage for a powerful symbol of revival. The unreleased ‘Missing Piece’ from Miss Universe 2020 [that should have been worn by Rabiya Mateo], long kept in the shadows of what could have been, finally finds its light in a transcendent new form inspired by the radiant goddess Hanan — the Filipina deity of dawn and new beginnings.

“Crafted with the soul of Bulacan, this national costume is a deity reclaiming of destiny, a tribute to beauty rediscovered, and a celebration of second chances glowing in golden dawn.”

Patrick Isorena for Miss Universe Philippines Caloocan, Liliw,

‘Walo’ by Patrick Isorena for MUPh Caloocan/Northern California Allyson Ee.
‘MAYARI FEATURING APOLAKI’ by Patrick Isorena for MUPh Liliw, Laguna/New Jersey Pauline Rowbelle del Mundo.
‘SANTELMO’ by Patrick Isorena for MUPh Manila Jasmine Paguio.

Laguna and Manila

On “Walo” for MUPh Caloocan City/Northern California Allyson Ee: “From the rich tapestry of Filipino myth emerges Walo — walong ulo, sanlibong mata. Born of ancient whispers and ancestral warnings, Walo is the guardian of truth and consequences. Each head echoes the voices of our elders; each eye sees through deceit, darkness, and denial. In a world that forgets its roots, Walo remembers. Not to bring fear — but to awaken memory, to protect what is sacred, and to remind us: walang lihim na hindi nabubunyag.”

On “Mayari Featuring Apolaki” for MUPh Liliw, Laguna/New Jersey Pauline Rowbelle del Mundo: “Mayari, the goddess of the moon in Tagalog mythology, has a story that feels deeply personal for anyone who’s walked through pain and come out stronger. She’s not just a beautiful, radiant deity but she’s a symbol of quiet strength, grace, and fierce resilience. Known as the goddess of revolution, war, beauty, and the night, Mayari held powerful influence over both celestial and human realms. In the myth, she fought her own brother, Apolaki, over who should rule the world after their father, Bathala, passed away.

On “Santelmo” for MUPh Manila Jasmine Paguio: “Santelmo (or Santilmo, St. Elmo’s Fire) is said to be the spirit of a man who has died near a river, lake, ocean, or during heavy rains. The lost soul appears as a ball of fire and some say it seeks revenge on those who may have done him wrong, while others claim the soul is seeking peace.”