Enterprising designer Fred Leysa showcased the complexities of the gender spectrum in Alkab, an award-winning shoe design, which weaved traditional Filipino craftsmanship with contemporary techniques.
With the name a palindrome of bakla, a Filipino term for “gay,” the concept stemmed from the young artist’s struggle to find shoes that fit both his masculine feet and feminine style.
“Growing up, I remember watching Sex and the City, The Devil Wears Prada and Pretty Woman,” he recalled. “Just like most gay boys, I would dress up and act like the women in these shows, but never found the shoes to complete the dream.”
“I wanted my version of Carrie’s Manolo’s, or Andrea’s Chanel boots, but it felt impossible because nothing fit me,” he added. “For years, I would squish my feet into ill-fitting women’s shoes designed with no intent to
be worn by men.”
Leysa thanked his former professor at De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde, Risqué Designs founder and chief executive officer Tal de Guzman, for introducing him to the shoe-making industry.
“Through her workshops, I noticed my footwear needs were different, and that very few brands in the global market cater towards this niche,” he explained. “By making my own pair, I learned to love my feet and relive the various fantasies I was never able to realize, simply because the shoe didn’t fit.”
With this, the Benilde Fashion Design and Merchandising graduate had one goal in mind: To be one of the designers the LGBTIQ+ community may turn to for their statement shoe.
“When I talk about queer footwear, it’s not just women’s shoes that are available in men’s sizes or vice versa. These are designs that holistically cater to the LGBTQIA+,” he clarified. “I want to give the community options because the market was limited.”
Alkab, his first piece, is a boot within a boot. With layers as its keyword, it is a reflection of the diverse personas which make LGBTQIA+ members uniquely beautiful. It is a play on the experience of coming out and features a lacing system that resembles a corset, a staple in any drag queen’s wardrobe.
“It is a tribute to the different faces we wear to conform to society while living our truth,” Leysa stated. “As someone who identifies as gender-fluid, I put on masks depending on how safe I feel around a person.”
Leysa, who serves as an educator in his alma mater, drew inspiration from a Ben Farrales gown he admired at the Benilde Fashion Museum Archives during a textile conservation workshop.
The Farrales piece is an abaca ensemble with intricate embroidery and beadwork. While Farrales used a thin black cord to create the fluid pattern, Leysa explored laser-cut leather appliques and collaborated with local weaver Shirley Alaurin from Bicol for a sturdier sinamay fabric which combined abaca and silver threads.
“The first layer is the plain white face adhered onto dark brown kidskin, followed by sinamay, then topped with hair and makeup that is also laser cut in black sheepskin,” Leysa explained. “These are all then machine-sewn together, where the threads act like the shared experiences of the community.”
For the wood-carved heels, Leysa worked with artisans from Paete Wood Carving Handicraft, whereas the handmade brass plates were created by Mjorian Jewelry. The heels have gaps — a depiction of windows into the soul — a study on the beauty of the inner self.
“The woman at the back of the heel is a reminder that femininity is not a weakness — that the boy who was once bullied for being malambot overcame all the odds and is celebrated for his femininity and creativity,” Leysa stressed.
“Alkab was put together by various Filipino craftsmen,” he stated. “It highlighted the might of the Filipino sapateros, weavers, carvers, and plateros — and reflected the beauty and resilience of our LGBTQIA+ community.”
The piece was created for the 10th Filipino Footwear Design Competition, spearheaded by the Department of Trade and Industry, the Department of Science and Technology-Philippine Textile Research Institute, and the Philippine Footwear Federation, Inc.
Leysa’s partner manufacturer was Nifty Shoes, and he was under the mentorship of Zapateria founder and president Unyx Santa Ana.
Among several contenders, the shoes was chosen as the Lady’s Boots Category winner. It was then hailed as the grand champion for its bold concept, masterful textile manipulation, and thoughtful storytelling. Through the tilt, Alkab has been chosen to be one of the country’s representatives at the 14th International Footwear Design Competition in
Guangzhou, China.