Knock, knock.
I was primed to start a game with my own reflection at the Louvre Abu Dhabi, as I stared at the smudge-free vitrine right before me. But my attention was quickly drawn to a golden piece — a captivating display just within the periphery of my vision.
Slanted eyes. High cheekbones. Clenched teeth. The unmistakable features sent a jolt of familiarity through me. Had I seen it before? I rattled my memory. New York? Paris? Cairo?
A proud yet rather soft voice came from behind me to proclaim: “It’s from my country.”
I immediately turned to find a Filipina in uniform — not security, but a doyenne of the museum, perhaps. She had a knowing smile, as if she had seen this moment play out before.
And then, it finally clicked. The last time I marveled at this mask was during a long-delayed tour of the Ayala Museum, accompanied by Susan Calo Medina, the genial ever-curious host of the pioneer Travel Time. A funerary mask, she had declared. From Butuan, Agusan del Norte, her home province.
Wow, now I recall with all the comentarios y mas!
I felt so relieved. Awed, even — with a sense of familiarity, akin to unexpectedly bumping into an acquaintance at the most random of places, at an even more unpredictable time!
I carefully leaned over to read the detailed info. A full-face gold mask from Butuan, measuring 21.5 x 16.3 cm, weighing 62 grams. Kindly don’t ask me – unless you wish to embarrass me – how many times I circled the particular escaparate.
As I continuously gazed and ogled, mouth gaped, still in shock, the same at-your-service lady sheepishly inquired where I was from.
“I’m also Filipino,” I immediately revealed.
Though caught absolutely unaware and in utter disbelief, she quickly snapped back to her senses and offered to lead me to yet another treasure.
In no time, I found myself in front of another masterpiece — a golden cup from Nabua, Camarines Sur.
Rather small but preeminently significant. 7.31 cm high, 9.28 cm in diameter, weighing 152.4 grams. A relic of a time when gold was not merely wealth but woven into the very fabric of culture.
Excited, I instantly messaged Mariles Gustilo, recently retired from the Ayala Museum but still serves as a Consultant for its forthcoming Contemporary Art Center in Circuit Makati.
“Yes, we do loan our precious relics,” she confirmed.
And thus, shortly upon my return, I sought an appointment with Aprille Tijam, Associate Director and Head of Exhibitions & Collections at Ayala Museum, to learn more about these artifacts on tours.
And let us just say -- what a loan they were! I soon learned the Gold of Ancestors: Pre-Colonial Gold from the Philippines collection is one of the largest assemblies of archaeological artifacts in Southeast Asia. The Louvre Abu Dhabi now houses two pieces of this legacy — which consist of over 1,000 precolonial gold objects dating from the 10th to 13th centuries — extended for exhibition until June 2025.
But this isn’t the first time Filipino artifacts have traveled to thrill other museum visitors. Tijam likewise reminded me the Ayala Museum’s treasures have graced New York’s Forgotten Kingdoms and the Archipelagoes in Paris, to the Juan Luna and Fernando Zobel paintings in Singapore and Spain, respectively.
Aside from these two golden obras, there were other forerunners as the most borrowed.
One is the kinnari, an exquisite gold figurine of a half-horse, half-woman — the embodiment of beauty and grace — from Southeast Asian mythology. Here, she is depicted in a vessel which was used to pour liquids in the olden times.
Two limestone burial jars, silent witnesses to the secondary burial traditions of our ancestors, are in demand as well. These rites were reserved for the wealthy, which speaks to the status of those who owned these receptacles before they were lost to time.
Other interesting curios include the gador, an imposing Maranao ceremonial container, and the kulintangan, an intricate gong-chime ensemble. Each narrates a story of the Philippines, which now continues to make waves in foreign shores.
For now, these antique heirlooms are safeguarded in leading depositories across the world, inviting all visitors, guests, and tourists to come a bit closer and learn a little of our history. But for Filipinos like us, these are welcome notes of our heritage – and of our home – as we spend time on holiday.