Manila is full of gastronomic delights. The city is always buzzing with something new for foodies, constantly introducing new experiences for the discerning palate. While we don’t have any Michelin stars yet, we certainly know what good food is. The scene is a landscape for purveyors of taste and has undoubtedly become a space for innovation.
A couple of weeks ago, Oak & Smoke (O/S), recent opened on the ground floor of Pacquiao Mansion in Salcedo Village, joining the ranks of the city’s new culinary spots. This new venue is the brainchild of chef Anna Bautista and chef Sean Jorgensen. The indoor area of the restaurant and cocktail bar is impressively situated under a slanted glass ceiling. Looking up, you’ll find a beautiful installation piece that mimics the shape and movement of smoke, captivatingly illuminating the space during dinner service. Outside, there’s a charming surprise—a tropical garden in the middle of the city offering delightful al fresco seating.
The menu at O/S reflects the culinary pursuits and passions of both chefs. Chef Anna was largely influenced by the French and California-Italian cuisines of San Francisco. Her years as chef de cuisine at the Michelin-starred contemporary Californian restaurant Madera instilled in her a deep appreciation for the finest farm-to-table ingredients. After her time at Madera, Anna moved to Shanghai, where she and chef Sean founded Blue Plate Consulting.
Chef Sean remarks, “The contrast between our cooking styles is evident. I paint with broader strokes, while Anna uses a finer approach.”
His straightforward approach to food is reflected in the dishes served at O/S. “I tend to play with smoke and fire. Our menu incorporates elements of smoke in dishes, whether it’s smoked almonds, pork jowls, or salmon. We want to be known for these hints of smoke and our use of coal and wood. Anything related to grilling, smoking and fire — that’s me.”
Inside the O/S kitchen, Binchotan from Japan is at the heart and hearth — this special type of charcoal emits minimal smoke, brings maximum heat and intensifies flavors. “What we do at O/S is take the concepts of BBQ and smoke and apply them to different flavors,” says chef Sean. Having spent 20 years working in top restaurants like Maya, Liquid Laundry, KU DE TA and Cannery, chef Sean has developed a connoisseur’s palate for Asian flavors.
You are what you eat, and this is the very essence of why this amazing establishment was created. “O/S is really the birth of what Sean and I like to eat and how we like to eat,” shares chef Anna. “The cooking techniques and principles draw from Californian and Southern cooking, but the flavors truly stem from our experiences living in China and our travels around Asia.”
Both chefs recommend, “For first-time diners, try the dishes cooked with binchotan, especially the Blue Marlin and Octopus.” Dishes are complemented by cocktails, spirits and libations created by principal mixologist Louis, who brings his expertise and vision for bespoke cocktails to O/S from his experience at Raffles Singapore and Burnt Ends.
“We’re only scratching the surface of what can and will be. We cook what we like to eat, and I think it comes through. I’m excited to play with fire and the ideas of what I can do with binchotan, as well as the open flames and smoke,” says chef Sean. The driving force seems to be a constant search for something new, akin to a discovery in every soul-searching adventure. Chef Anna adds, “That’s where we are with O/S — trying to figure out which Asian flavors we are familiar with and how to either present them differently or be bold enough to marry them with Western techniques.”
More than just a place for hearty dishes and foodie indulgence, this haven is anchored in good vibrations and a sense of comfort. “We wanted O/S to be a gathering place for those who live around us. We want the space to be comfortable enough for a quick meal or a glass of wine after work, but also special enough for celebrating milestones,” says chef Anna. Dark wood, midnight blue upholstery and touches of copper evoke a sense of ease and familiarity. Chef Sean adds, “It’s got a living vibe to it. What we’re building is a lifestyle — a true chef-driven concept where the chef is present every night, and we are hands-on with the curation.”
Oak & Smoke is located on the ground floor of Pacquiao Mansion, 324 H.V. Dela Costa Street, Makati City. It is open from Monday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., with the bar open until 1 a.m. For updates, follow @oakandsmoke.ph on Instagram.