‘Kaon ta!’: Chefs give Negros cuisine international flair

Negros might have lost one of its biggest cuisine ambassadors, celebrity chef Margarita “Gaita” Fores, but her legacy lives on among the province’s up-and-coming chefs, who fused their Negrense roots and homegrown recipes with their international schooling and training.

In a live cooking demonstration last Tuesday at the opening of this year’s “Himbon: The Negros Trade Fair” in SMX Convention Center, SM Aura in Taguig City, the Negrense chefs showcased their province’s unique flavors, indigenous ingredients and passed-on-traditions in the kitchen.

Chef Manny Torrejon of the restaurant Manolo’s Comida del Corazon gave Negrense fare an Asian twist, churning out Nasi Lemak Negrense — coconut-infused heirloom rice with Inasal, enhanced by Lobo Lobo anchovies from Negros; Batwan-infused Sambal with Guinalaran Guinamos; and wrapped in banana leaves. Another dish presented was Beef and Chicken Rendang — beef and chicken slowly braised in coconut milk with Batwan, served with heirloom rice infused with Annato, chicken oil and lots of garlic bits.

Chef Cara Davis, who owns a restaurant in Legaspi Village, Makati City called Halong, cooked in some of the best restaurants in the world, trained in Michelin-starred kitchens from New York to San Sebastián, and specializes in Mexican flavors. For the fair, she prepared Crab Tinga - potato pave, crab fat or aligue aioli, nasturtiums and pickled shallots, enticingly placed atop Negros crab shells. 

Meanwhile, a chef known only as “Nadia” served Shrimp Binakhaw, a Negrense version of Kinilaw or Dumaguete-style Cerviche; and Budbod Kabog, a usually sweet Dumaguete delicacy traditionally made of cheese, but this time, was served savory at the fair, using chicken oil and topped with parmesan cheese and chorizo. 

Sauma, a farm, bar and kitchen by chef Don Colmenares, showcased Ochezuke na Linagpag, a Japanese-inspired stuffed pork over rice, using chicken from Kabankalan and red egg from Bago.

Finally, “Negros via France” arrived via chef Luis Locsin of Silay. His Negrense takes on Pâté en Croute or French pate on crust, was described as “very architectural” since he came from a family of architects. He presented Pâté en Croute ala Chicken Galantina and Pâté en Croute Chorizo.

“The chefs’ presentation were very Negrense but also very international. It shows endless possibilities to cook and partake of Negrense food,” the host of the fair, which runs until 28 September, affirmed.