The Three Saints of Assisi

Assisi is where time seems to have slowed down. No towering buildings, no modern skyscrapers. Instead, the medieval conclave lies gently on the Umbrian hillside, its cobblestoned streets winding through aged churches and stone houses, bustling piazzas and cooling fountains. However, in this peaceful quiet hamlet, they have a new rockstar with no intention to surpass nor overshadow Saint Francis and Saint Clare.

You see, when one mentions Assisi, two consecrated names come up without fail: Saint Francis, patron saint of the poor and of animals, and Saint Clare, patroness of fertility and extrasensory perception.

They bear the names of this humble homestead that they are not remembered by their family names — Bernardone or Offreduccio. They are simply Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Clare of Assisi. How could anyone forget? This village, a two-and-a-half hour ride from Rome, is tied up with their revered names, which are fervently whispered in prayers.

Francis, who founded the Franciscan Order, preached radical poverty and love for creation. Clare, inspired by his example, who followed with the Order of Poor Ladies — later called the Poor Clares — lived in humility, silence, and prayer. Together they molded a sweeping movement that has spanned centuries.

On a most recent visit — this hot, more like heat-wave summer in Europe — a third name was added to Assisi’s stellar roster: Saint Carlo Acutis, the Millennial Saint.

As creatures of habit, we followed our old familiar visitation route. As usual, the first stop was the pink-stone Basilica of Saint Clare. Within its premise is the San Giorgio Chapel, where the 12th-century painted San Damiano Crucifix is displayed.

According to our guide — storyteller par excellence — Marco, it was this particular crucifix that spoke to Francis, much like Saint Paul’s spiritual encounter on the road to Damascus. At this moment, Francis decided to surrender the wealth he had inherited from his merchant father. In the end, he found himself naked — leaving behind everything — marking the beginning of the Franciscans.

In this same basilica, the remains of Saint Clare are preserved. We lit a candle before her crypt, and soon found ourselves quietly praying.

Nearby, the Shrine of the Relics reveals more of her life’s story, displaying forfeited riches from her noble family and the raggedy remnants of her own clothes. Yet the simplicity of her final resting place says it all.

Next, we made our pilgrim’s way to the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, which houses the Porziuncola, a tiny chapel which we almost missed during our earlier visits. Storybook-like, almost a Hansel-and-Gretel cottage, this is the very spot where Francis founded the Franciscans, gathered his followers, and later, where he died.

No religious voyage is complete without the Basilica of Saint Francis. The saint is buried within these hallowed grounds. Unfortunately, for the first time ever, we could not get near his tomb — the crypt was cordoned off, for there was a Mass going on. Various attendees of the recently-concluded World Youth Day had their precious time in the area.

The noteworthy relationship between Francis and Clare deserves more than a passing mention. It was not romance at all that bound them, but a friendship built on vision and courage. On Palm Sunday in 1212, Clare publicly renounced her family wealth and joined Francis’ divine calling. He cut her hair and clothed her in a rough tunic, marking her new life.

Their strong solid bond endured until the end. Shortly before his death, Francis visited Clare to bless her and her sisters. They reliably strengthened one another — Francis offered wise example and knowing guidance, while Clare brought steadfast prayer and absolute defense.

It’s been said when foreign invaders tried to attack Assisi, Clare bravely held up the Blessed Sacrament from the convent of San Damiano. The enemies hurriedly fled.

The end of our journey brought us to the Church of Saint Mary Major, also known as the Sanctuary of Spoliation — named to commemorate the moment Francis stripped himself of worldly wealth.

Today, it holds the remains of then-Blessed, now-Saint Carlo Acutis, for it was just three weeks before his canonization at Saint Peter’s Square. And yet, he had already drawn a steady stream of pilgrims. In sneakers, jeans, and a sweatshirt, this teenager had become Assisi’s new saint, filling up the roster to three.

It must be noted, however, that environs of Assisi has more than just four churches!

The Rocca Maggiore fortress looms above it all. In the Piazza del Comune, the Temple of Minerva and sparkling fountains serve as reminders of the glory that was Ancient Rome.

Mom-and-pop bistros and posh restaurants serve Umbrian fare — beloved pasta with truffles, acclaimed local olive oil, and the finest of regional Italian wines. Ever-present gelato quickly melts in the summer heat — a sign of its rich quality.

Domestic tourism even organizes truffle-hunting tours in the surrounding countryside — which we regrettably had to pass on — for now. Perhaps on our next visit, as we seem to find ourselves in Assisi over and over again.Oath of Poverty Shrine of the Relics of Saint Clare.Oath of Poverty Shrine of the Relics of Saint Clare.