Manila meets Dubai

Filipino food has been under the spotlight abroad, from Adobo to ube.

Just one example: New York-based baker and blogger Abi Balingit developed a fusion recipe for Adobo Chocolate Chip Cookies that went viral and her cookbook Mayumu: Filipino-American Desserts Remixed went on to win a James Beard award. More and more people are tasting our food — and cooking our food — and loving it.

Perhaps just as important as promoting our culinary heritage globally is recognizing Filipinos who have excelled at either bringing our dishes to more palates or running kitchens specializing in different cuisines. We should be bringing their stories back home and celebrating them.

That is exactly what San Juan institution Guevarra’s, under the stewardship of chefs Roland and Jackie Laudico, has been doing with their Taste of the Philippines program. After hosting The Adobros, the Melbourne-based supper club duo known for their innovative twists on Adobo and other Filipino classics, Guevarra’s partnered with David Jezreel Lizardo Pamplona — better known as Chef Dabo — for the latest edition of their Global Culinary Journey, running through September.

Chef Dabo is the managing director, head chef and co-founder of Naimas Café & Bistro in Dubai, where he has spent over a decade shaping menus that reflect Pan-Asian, Latin American and Filipino influences. His resume includes multiple gold medals from Salon Culinaire Dubai and a PRO Chef 2019 finalist spot. At Guevarra’s, however, the spotlight was squarely on how he reimagines Filipino staples through a cross-cultural lens.

The buffet now features these additions:

Where you might expect the gentle sweetness of raisins in a traditional empanada, the Humba-Rum Chicken Empanada was amplified by the glaze-like Humba sauce. The extra sweetness played against the savory chicken filling and crust in a way that felt very Filipino — we love pairing sweet braises and sauces with bland rice.

Then came the dish I’d return for: Tiyula Itum Inasal Yakitori. Tiyula Itum, the Tausug black soup built on charred coconut, has rightfully gained attention in Manila thanks to content creators and restaurants spotlighting Mindanao cuisine. Here, Chef Dabo fused this southern favorite with Inasal flavors and cooking techniques that should be less exotic to sheltered Manileños. The combination was brilliant: smoky and toasty at once. The patis (fish sauce)-calamansi dip provided exactly the right balance of acid and salt. This is the dish you save space for, because one stick would not be enough.

The Bistek Saltado was another standout. Thin slices of beef were tender and coated in a rich, slow-stewed tomato sauce — fresh tomatoes, no canned or boxed shortcuts here. At the restaurant, richness is something of a signature — the Kare-Kare, Bicol Express and Angus Roast Beef are crowd favorites for a reason. But this dish managed to hold its own.

Finally, the Shrimp Laing Rebosado surprised me most. Laing’s earthy greens wrapped around sweet shrimp, encased in a golden batter, then paired with coconut wasabi cream. The dip gave just enough heat to jolt the palate without overwhelming the delicate seafood.

For the Laudicos, the collaboration was an extension of their long-running mission to champion Filipino food.

“It’s been our mission from the start to promote Filipino cuisine both here and abroad,” said chef Roland. “We’ve participated in countless food festivals to champion our flavors, but this time, we’re highlighting world-class chefs working overseas who share our advocacy.”

Chef Jackie added, “Working with a Filipino chef based in the Middle East brings a unique perspective, especially since the region has one of the largest overseas Filipino communities.”

Chef Dabo himself was quick to stress the global potential of Filipino food. “Dubai is a global dining hub and Filipino cuisine is so versatile it fits any culture. My goal is to make our ingredients as globally recognized as sushi or curry — distinct, respected and true to their roots.”

Even after he returns to Naimas, where he offers sophisticated yet homey takes on Truffle Gyoza, Laksa, Green Curry and Tres Leches, this collaboration at Guevarra’s underscores something bigger. Filipino chefs abroad are carrying our cuisine forward and succeeding in world-class kitchens.