Chef Robby Goco flexes lamb chops

The past year has seen a slew of trends reshape the local culinary scene: bar takeovers, non-alcoholic cocktails and Japanese concepts laser-focused on dishes like Sukiyaki, Hamburg and Katsudon. There is still time left in 2025 for another evolution in Manila dining, so why not look at lamb?

That was the spirit of the recent launch of the “Lambassador” program in the Philippines, where chef Robby Goco was introduced as the country’s first-ever Lambassador by Meat & Livestock Australia.

At an intimate tasting in Bonifacio Global City’s Greek eatery Souv! by Cyma, Chef Robby put together a five-course meal that doubled as a masterclass on lamb’s versatility.

The dishes ranged from Mediterranean to Mexican to Filipino, each highlighting different aspects of the meat. The lamb burger, for instance, showed how lamb can be a strong alternative to beef. Dressed in familiar flavors, it felt welcoming to Filipino diners who may have tried lamb before in the form of Middle Eastern kebabs, but it still let lamb’s distinct character shine.

The Lamb Al Ajillo was comfort food at its richest — garlicky, flavorful and easy to imagine alongside a cold beer or a glass of wine. Then there was the cumin-crusted Lamb Loin Chop, sophisticated yet accessible, the kind of dish an adventurous home cook could take on in their own kitchen and please picky children with.

The Barbacoa was one of the meal’s highlights, a lively mix of textures and flavors you would expect from tacos, but lamb was unmistakably the star. That strong flavor held its ground against all the accompaniments, from guac to birria broth.

The Lamb Adobo, meanwhile, offered the biggest surprise: familiar, soulful and very Filipino, the lamb’s boldness provided a welcome juke.

“I’ve always believed lamb deserves a place on the everyday Filipino table,” the chef said. “It’s not just for special occasions. With the right approach and flavor profile, it can be as comforting as Adobo or as exciting as your next burger.”

Indeed, the Adobo made me think about trying my own hand at more outlandish dishes like Lamb Binagoongan or Pares down the line, to really test Chef Robby’s words.

Through these dishes, Goco demonstrated two things about lamb. First, its strong, distinctive flavor — while admittedly not everyone’s cup of tea — holds its own against just about anything you throw at it. From the tartness of yogurt, to Adobo’s vinegary braising liquid, to the garlic punch of Al Ajillo, to the customizable cacophony of a Mexican taco tray, lamb did not just survive — it thrived.

Second, lamb works beautifully across different levels of doneness. I have enjoyed medium-rare lamb chops before and that is still my preference, but the more thoroughly-cooked loin chop and the stewed Adobo were equally rewarding. You can kill a steak by overcooking it, and underdone chicken or pork will drive diners away, but lamb forgives fire.

Spencer Whitaker, MLA’s Business Manager for Southeast Asia, pointed out that this versatility is exactly why Manila makes sense for lamb. Some of the metro’s trendier cuisines, including Chinese-style hotpot and its cumin-forward Shao Kao barbecue cousin, already feature it. Indian restaurants commonly offer mutton options, which feature a similar taste profile to lamb. And since Filipinos also love stews and braises (kaldereta, anyone?), the sky is perhaps the limit for this punchy protein.

Luisa Rust, Senior Trade and Investment Commissioner of Austrade, also shared her optimism for lamb’s prospects on Filipino dining tables: “Australian lamb is a beloved staple in any Australian home, and seeing it reimagined through the vibrant, dynamic lens of Filipino cuisine is truly exciting. We’re thrilled to witness how this premium protein can find a new identity… rooted in tradition yet open to innovation.”

Rust added that Australia’s strong ties to the Philippines — including a 400,000-strong diaspora and thousands of students studying there — could also help lamb find a stronger home here. I can imagine many a balikbayan or returning resident sharing their experiences eating this wonderful meat with the folks at home. If our Australian hosts’ testimonies were anything to go by, Aussies eat lamb like we devour extra rice — regularly.

Beyond this collaboration with Chef Robby, Whitaker also revealed that Aussie Beef & Lamb is partnering with restaurants like I Am Angus, Chesa Bianca, Persia Grill and Discovery Primea for the “I Love Aussie Lamb” promotion running until 15 September. You can check out the official Facebook page of Aussie Beef & Lamb Philippines for the full list of partners that will be offering lamb-laden dishes for next month.