Metro Manila is a couple of decades into the gastropub concept, but it’s still worth celebrating when a new place opens that offers a promising mix of good food and novel drinks.

On 4 July, Kauri Taproom officially opened its doors on Wilson Street, San Juan City, presenting itself not just as another dining option, but as a vibrant addition to the local craft beer and fusion cuisine scene.

At the opening night event, hearing the folks behind Kauri speak, you get the sense that this is a group of friends with a shared vision: to build something proudly Filipino, a little offbeat, and a lot of fun. Brewer Dea Suyosa of Jade’s Temple Brewery — which I first got to try a year or two ago when they released some Christmas-themed beers — brings her signature creativity to the table, especially with their lineup of fruit-forward, sometimes dessert-adjacent brews. Chefs Trish Fragante and King Estolano also bring strong culinary instincts to the kitchen, rounding out a team clearly invested in making Kauri both approachable and memorable.

Inspired by the Kauri tree — one of the world’s oldest and most resilient species — the taproom’s name symbolizes deep-rooted tradition and a sense of community. It’s also a clever play on the Tagalog phrase “ka-uri,” meaning “kindred.” And indeed, a night at Kauri feels less like a formal dining experience and more like a laid-back gathering with friends, focused on great food and craft beers worth talking about.

Symbolism provides a great foundation for a concept, but what really matters is the food and drink, and Kauri delivers on both counts. At the opening, the Chori Burger stood out immediately, hitting that sweet and salty spot Filipinos love. It paired especially well with Kauri’s bright, fruit-forward lagers — think crisp Mango Lager.

Equally compelling was the Laingetti, an inventive take on laing that combined bold, creamy coconut notes with pasta. Its richness called out for a pairing like the Black Forest Lager, chocolatey yet refreshing, showcasing Kauri’s mastery of thoughtful beer-and-food combinations.

The highlight of the evening was undoubtedly the Sizzling Kansi. Its tangy sauce was reduced to a kare-kare-like consistency, the beef perfectly tender and offset by crunchy vegetables. Each bite found a delightful contrast in lighter beers such as the Sampaguita Orange Ale, though it paired equally well with the sweeter Peach Mango Lager.

Another standout dish, Jade’s Temple Ribs, featured robustly seasoned, perfectly-cooked pork paired with syrupy canned peach that provided a perfect sweet counterpoint — ideal for sipping alongside Kauri’s stronger-flavored beers, like the powerful Duhat Sour.

Speaking of the Duhat Sour, this was outstanding: Fruity, tart, and memorable. It captured an overlooked ingredient in Filipino cuisine and left me craving more. As of now it’s only available at the Taproom, and I’ll be going back just for that.

Another standout was the Tsokolate Stout, which notably bypassed sweetness in favor of cacao’s roasty, toasty notes — a sophisticated finish to any meal.

Kauri Taproom is a great option for beer lovers looking for something different from other breweries’ hoppier or maltier offerings, or diners looking to pair a good meal with creative and often fruity craft beers.