For decades, Joel Torre has been a commanding presence in Philippine cinema — a celebrated actor whose name is synonymous with powerful, nuanced performances both on screen and on stage.

But behind the spotlight, Torre has quietly built a second legacy — one rooted not in scripts and characters, but in fire-grilled chicken and the rich flavors of his hometown, Bacolod.

What began as a humble fallback plan during a career crossroads has now evolved into a thriving restaurant venture — JT’s Manukan Grille — a reflection of Torre’s love for food, family, and Filipino culture.

But for Torre, the restaurant is more than a business. It’s an extension of his roots, his childhood, and his deep-seated belief that food, like storytelling, brings people together.

“Bacolod people are known for their good taste,” he said, recalling how his early years were surrounded by laughter, meals, and the shared joy of eating. 

“Good food, good vibes, good energy. That’s part of the culture of Bacolod.”

Long before he became a household name in film, Torre was already immersed in the food world — not as a chef, but as the son of Luz de Leon Torre, a matriarch who fed not just her 13 children, but entire neighborhoods and hospital workers through her home-based catering. 

Their driveway often turned into a bustling pick-up point for hot meals, a memory that would later influence Torre’s own approach to feeding others.

“Well, first of all, we were in the food industry. My mother was already catering,” he said. “There were 13 of us in the family, so she had to feed 13 children. She thought, ‘Why not make business out of it?’ So growing up, it was part of my passion.”

“Food was just everywhere in the house,” he added. “Even before the term ‘cloud kitchen’ existed, my mom was already doing that. Our cousins, neighbors, people from work — they’d all come to our house for food.”

Families would line up outside their home in Bacolod, lunch containers in hand, waiting to pick up the day’s rasyon — daily food portions. Torre remembered seeing 50 to 60 families in their driveway at a time. The meals came in a set: four viands — a meat dish, seafood, vegetables, soup — and rice. That sense of abundance and balance would later shape the philosophy behind JT’s Manukan.

Klieg give way to street lights

Torre’s artistic roots run just as deep. He began performing in theater at age seven, nurtured by mentors like the late Peque Gallaga, who introduced him to the stage and later to the world of film.

“I came to Manila in 1982 during Oro, Plata, Mata, but even before that, I was already vacationing here or coming over for our theater practicums,” Torre said. “Peque was really a good teacher, a terrific stage director, and eventually became a great film director. He brought me into the world of the arts when I was just a kid.”

But as Torre’s acting career blossomed — with roles that earned him critical acclaim across decades — the relentless pace of showbiz began to take its toll. Long shooting days, sometimes over 20 hours, were physically and mentally exhausting.

By 2003, Torre and his wife, Cristy, began seriously exploring the idea of a food business. Acting, Torre said, may have seemed glamorous, but it wasn’t always sustainable. Food, on the other hand, offered stability — and a way to stay connected to his Bacolod heritage.

They asked themselves a simple question: What dish best represents Bacolod? The answer was clear —chicken inasal.

Historic beginnings

In May 2003, they opened the first JT’s Manukan — a modest, street-side eatery along Granada Street in New Manila, Quezon City. The location, suggested by fellow actor Jimmy Fabregas, had history: it was once the literal gateway to Sampaguita Studios.

The original setup had just seven seats in an al fresco space. But the food — smoky, savory, and unmistakably Ilonggo — drew crowds quickly. As demand grew, the restaurant expanded its seating onto the street and secured a vendor permit from City Hall. Torre also added other Ilonggo staples to the menu, including cansi, a regional soup made with batuan, which he described as a cross between bulalo and sinigang.

Surviving in the food industry, Torre said, is a matter of endurance and timing. “If a restaurant lasts one year, it has a shot at three; make it to three and five is possible. If it hits the five-year mark, the chances of reaching 10 years improve significantly.” 

JT’s Manukan has far surpassed those milestones.

Winning formula: 4Ms

At the heart of JT’s Manukan’s success is Torre’s commitment to authenticity and simplicity. “We serve simple food. Delicious, simple comfort food. That’s the magic,” he said.

The restaurant lives by what he calls the “4Ms”: masarap, mura, malinis at masaya (delicious, cheap, clean and fun). These values, passed down from his mother’s kitchen, continue to shape how the brand operates.

Now with multiple branches across the Philippines, JT’s has gone global, opening its first Singapore outlet last year and launching a second location just months later.

“We cater mostly to Filipinos based there (Singapore), but then the locals — the Chinese, Indians and Singaporeans —are starting to adapt. They like our Filipino food,” Torre shared.

Next on the horizon is Dubai, where JT’s Manukan will open at City Center Deira on 7 August.

Torre takes pride in the idea that his humble inasal brand could be the first Filipino chicken chain to gain international traction. A previous attempt to expand in Guam was cut short by the pandemic, but he remains undeterred.

Looking ahead, Torre hopes JT’s Manukan will not only thrive but also take its place as a global ambassador of Filipino culinary heritage.

“We wish to serve authentic Bacolod inasal on the international plate,” he said.