Chi Lin Nunnery: Serenity in bustling Hong Kong

There are certain areas where the roar and rattle of the modern sphere gently surrenders to reverence and rhythm, repose and rest. The Chi Lin Nunnery, snuggled in Diamond Hill, Kowloon, is one such haven of a sanctuary — a symphony of shrubs and blooms, wood and water nestled in Hong Kong’s most vibrant quarters, where space and more spacious space reign.

Founded in 1934, then as a far-from-it-all spiritual retreat for Buddhist nuns, the nunnery was entirely rebuilt in 1998, now amid skyscrapers, one trying to outdo the others in height. But this was no contemporary renovation. What do I mean, you may rightfully ask?

Instead, expert artisans faithfully revived the Tang Dynasty-era architecture, as they meticulously recreated the sheer elegance of a bygone imperial era, sadly missed by some. The most unbelievable architectural feat? Skillfully crafted entirely from cypress wood, it used an ancient technique of interlocking joints — meaning, no adhesives and not a single nail was used in its construction!

To date, it is the only structural complex in Hong Kong built this way. And believe it or not, it is largest handmade wooden testimony in the world!

Beautifully spanning over 33,000 square meters, the expansive compound includes an inspiring pagoda, bell and drum towers, a specialized school, a well-stocked library, and 16 majestic halls.

It is the Main Hall that commanded our admiration. Towering cedar columns — 28 in all, each soaring 18 feet — supports the intricate clay-tiled roof. It weighs an astonishing 176 tons, yet rests seemingly weightless above.

Our leisurely immersive walk was like stepping into a brush painting. Ornate pavilions opened to tranquil courtyards. The sacred halls held true-to-life statues of the Sakyamuni Buddha, the compassionate Guanyin, and other revered bodhisattvas — sculpted from austere stone, aged wood, molded clay and glimmering gold.

The air also seemed to be infused with incense and enlightenment. Melodious chants — often gentle, sometimes meditative — drifted softly through the corridors.

We soon learned the entire expanse is aligned according to the much-respected Feng Shui. Behind, the mountain offers spiritual fortitude; ahead, the sea beckons with abundance.

Unlike several of Hong Kong’s ornate shrines awash with color and decor, the Chi Lin Nunnery embraces restraint. The only embellishments are polished timber beams and serene Buddhist icons that glow in filtered daylight.

We then further explored the rooms and galleries, and eventually came face to face with the lotus courtyards — mirror-like pools which reflected not only their surroundings, but the quietude within.

Nearby, a minimalist café offered herbal teas and vegetarian delights. A compact but well-curated gift shop featured temple-exclusive wares — some not seen elsewhere in the city.

Within the same area but across a bridge, lies the equally arresting Nan Lian Garden, likewise designed in the Tang Dynasty fashion and devotedly maintained by the nunnery.

Here, amid manicured lawns and sculpted pines, time grinds to a halt. Every path wound past koi ponds, cascading waterfalls, and moon gates. Fragrant frangipani filled the air. Admirable bonsai trees sprouted from huge, but just-as-artistic pots, and families gathered for picnics on grassy fields, lost in laughter.

And so, upon our day inside this spiritual oasis, we came to realize the hallowed ground is, ultimately, a symbol of Buddhism’s presence. When political upheaval rocked China, many monks sought refuge on nearby Lantau Island. There, hermitages sprouted like proverbial mushrooms, hidden from the chaos. As temples in the mainland were converted into schools, monks migrated south to Hong Kong, where they could safeguard their faith and teachings.

Iconic masters such as Ven. Hsu Yun, Ven. Yin Guang, and Ven. Tai Xu catalyzed Buddhist education and preservation — and the Chi Lin Nunnery would not exist without them. Today, their legacies echo through these serene walkways, to be fondly remembered for centuries to come.