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The future of Filipiniana: Fashioned with fresh imagination and inspired by artistic heritage

Philippine visual arts and fashion meld in ‘Filipiniana X Obra,’ an exhibit featuring capsule collections by the winners, mentors, and finalists of TernoCon 2025
The future of Filipiniana: Fashioned with fresh imagination and inspired by artistic heritage
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‘Three Women with Baskets’ (oil on canvas, 1976) by Anita Magsaysay-Ho.
‘Three Women with Baskets’ (oil on canvas, 1976) by Anita Magsaysay-Ho.

LAST OF TWO PARTS

Ram Silva, Winner of Gawad Ramon Valera (Bronze Medal)

Silva, an entrepreneur and designer, was in the top 15 of the 2012 Mega Young Designers Competition. In 2016, he founded RamCouture, a made-to-order store that celebrates the rich textile traditions of his native Iloilo City. He is also the owner and head coordinator of Sponsa Coordination, an events company. He recently launched his ready-to-wear lines for Katutubo and Bench, named Lily, after his beloved mother.

Silva’s capsule collection takes from the works of National Artist Fernando Amorsolo.
Silva’s capsule collection takes from the works of National Artist Fernando Amorsolo. Photographs courtesy of Roel Hoang Manipon

Mentored by Tan Gan, Silva shared his thoughts on his inspiration and design process: “For my capsule collection, I immersed myself in the evocative paintings of Fernando Amorsolo. Growing up in the province, I was shaped by the quiet yet profound beauty of a life often overlooked by the world. Amorsolo’s works — rich in nostalgia, romance and simplicity— mirror the very essence of my humble beginnings, where every day felt like a timeless painting, brimming with emotion and meaning.

Yssa Inumerable’s collection is painterly, inspired by the works of Anita Magsaysay-Ho.
Yssa Inumerable’s collection is painterly, inspired by the works of Anita Magsaysay-Ho.

“Amorsolo’s works often celebrate Filipino culture, traditions and identity. Pay attention to the details that emphasize the Filipino spirit, such as traditional attire, customs and cultural motifs that populate his paintings.

“By observing and analyzing these key characteristics in Amorsolo’s artworks, you can develop a keen eye for recognizing his distinctive artistic style and gain deeper insights into the beauty and richness of his visual language.

“I was also deeply inspired by the women in his paintings, whose simplicity, beauty and soulfulness reminded me of my grandmothers, whose influence on my own sense of fashion has been immeasurable. These women were not just figures of grace, they embodied a quiet strength, a beauty that transcended the ordinary, much like the legacy of fashion they instilled in me

“I wanted to create something that honors and preserves the Filipino identity. It’s not about extravagance, but about creating something simple but yet profound — something that respects and maintains the essence of the terno. As a designer, I believe it is my role to protect this heritage, to honor its legacy, and to celebrate the beauty of our identity through every stitch and silhouette.

“While innovation is essential, I believe it’s equally important to return to our roots. No matter how far we progress, we must preserve and respect where we came from. By doing so, we ensure that future generations can also experience and appreciate the rich heritage that defines us.

“I wanted to honor the identity of my region, so I chose to work with materials that embody its rich heritage. I incorporated 95 percent handwoven fabrics, including piña from Kalibo; hablon from Miagao, Iloilo; and natural fibers like raffia. Through this collection, I aim to not only showcase the intricate craftsmanship of these materials but also highlight the incredible skill and artistry of the weavers and Ilonggo artisans who bring them to life.

“Winning TernoCon is a triumph that speaks to the countless hours, the sacrifices and the relentless pursuit of my dreams. It’s more than just a title, it’s a reflection of my soul, my devotion to Filipino fashion and the artistry that fuels my every creation. This is the culmination of a journey that has tested me, shaped me and ultimately led me to this defining moment.

“My design process for TernoCon began with a deep desire to honor Filipino identity. I wanted to create something that not only celebrates our culture but also preserves the timeless silhouette that defines it. From there, I chose to integrate 100 percent handwoven materials into my designs, aiming to highlight the beauty and craftsmanship of Philippine textiles. It was important to me to showcase the richness of our heritage in every thread, making sure the tradition of Filipino weaving is seen and appreciated.

“After winning TernoCon, I realized I needed time to rest and recharge so I can come back with a clearer mind and renewed focus on my goals. Rest isn’t just important, it’s necessary for growth. Once I’m recharged, I plan to continue

learning, working alongside my mentors and collaborating with those who inspire me. My commitment to advocating for Philippine textiles will remain at the heart of my work, and I also hope to return to fashion school to deepen my knowledge and push my craft even further.”

Yssa Inumerable, winner of Gawad Pacita Longo (gold medal) at the TernoCon 2023

Aside from the works of the TernoCon 2025 winners and finalists, the capsule collection of 2023 Gawad Pacita Longo (gold medal) awardee, Inumerable from Parañaque City, is also featured in the runway showcase and the exhibit, “Filipiniana X Obra.” The roster of winners that year was notable for being all women.

An alumna of the Fashion Institute of the Philippines, Inumerable set up her own fashion store, Yssa Studio, offering bespoke, bridal and ready-to-wear lines.

For her 2025 collection, she explained, “My collection, entitled ‘The Women of Anita,’ was inspired by the works of Anita Magsaysay-Ho. Drawing from the artist’s muses — Filipina women working or interacting in a rural context — it celebrated their movement, resilience and grace. The design process involved painting directly on, fabric to echo the painter ‘s distinctive brushstrokes. I also attempted to harmonize contemporary elements with the more traditional portrayal of her muses.”

The collection of Rhett Eala pays tribute to Lao Lianben.
The collection of Rhett Eala pays tribute to Lao Lianben. Photographs courtesy of Roel Hoang Manipon

Rhett Eala, mentor

Besides being the mentor to TernoCon winners Garde and Madis, and finalists Gonzales, Gamer and Marin, Eala also showcased a Filipiniana collection. He shared his thoughts and creative process: “I have not actually thought of a name for my pieces, but it’s an ode to Lao Lianben. We used a lot of silks and tulle and piña from Aklan. There were really no challenges in procuring the materials because I have been collecting the fabrics in my travels.

“I think I was assigned Lao Lianben because the TernoCon organizers knew that I knew about his works, and I know him personally. In fact, before I started on the collection, I ran into him in the mall. It was serendipity

“I’ve always wanted to do this project. It’s a commitment to nurture these young talents. It was very fulfilling. It’s like passing on your knowledge to the next generation of designers but we had to push them beyond their comfort zone.

“We gave suggestions but ultimately it was them who made the decision. We also as mentors had to push ourselves to produce something beautiful and significant in bringing Philippine fashion forward.

“I am very proud of my mentees. I’m like a proud parent. This was one of the most challenging Ternocons because there were parameters and the inspirations of their chosen artists. They really pushed the themes to produce beautiful collections.”

Ezra Santos, mentor

The Dubai-based, world-class couturier was the mentor to finalists Bandana, Servano, Hernandez and Subang. On his collection, called “AiSia,” he said, “The materials I used were crepe georgette, chiffon crepe and piña and capiz in nude tones, copper silk taffetas and beadwork and copper metals accessories inspired by the artist’s sculptures of sarimanok, okir and fishes since I was assigned to National Artist Abdulmari Asia Imao, a Tausug, the first Moro to receive the recognition.”

“I had difficulty interpreting the artist in the garments because of the Muslim background to create a terno, balintawak and kimona that will not look like a Spanish mestiza but more towards the softness of a Filipina Muslim,” he revealed. “Even Imao’s paintings are so colorful but when I saw his sculptures and drawing sent by his family, that’s where I got my inspiration to create accessories and sculptural pieces for the show.”

“I couldn’t say no to participating in TernoCon. It’s a privilege to share my experience to my mentees. It was a wonderful experience and honestly, I gained more knowledge about our national dress,” Santos commented. “My mentees are all wonderful. For me, they are all winners because by being part of TernoCon. They gained knowledge, experience and great exposure. I’m so proud of them. They did their very best, and the outcome is just fantastic!”

Lulu Tan-Gan, mentor

The Knit Queen who has transitioned to doing contemporary Filipiniana was the mentor to Peralta, Silva, Lazol and Gatan. For her collection, called “Breeze Over Canvas,” Tan-Gan used mostly piña, silk and abaca, sharing, “Waiting for piña fabrics to be hand-woven is like embarking on a pilgrimage — it requires patience. While the making of any garment or a collection requires dedication and a deep appreciation for the journey as much as the final creation.

National Artist Ang Kiukok’s Still Life Table (pen and ink on paper, 1972).
National Artist Ang Kiukok’s Still Life Table (pen and ink on paper, 1972).
Lulu Tan-Gan’s collection called Breeze Over Canvas, echoes the sensibilities of National Artist Ang Kiukok.
Lulu Tan-Gan’s collection called Breeze Over Canvas, echoes the sensibilities of National Artist Ang Kiukok.

On her inspiration, she said, “I chose Ang Kiukok because I am very attracted to his works that convey deep emotional resonance, making them both visually striking and thought-provoking. His use of sharp lines, strong colors and geometric abstraction gives his art a raw, almost primal energy. I aspire to own one of his artworks.”

“I believe in the Filipino talent. I will participate not only to share my knowledge but also to take the opportunity to learn from the next generation of designers. It’s important to understand their thoughts, aspirations, and creative vision,” she added. “As mentors, our role is to guide them through the design process with a clear framework — drawing inspiration from an artist to shape their creative vision, designing a terno, balintawak, or kimona with accuracy, ensuring all essential traditional components are correctly incorporated and upholding artisanal craftsmanship, emphasizing skill, tradition and thoughtful execution.”

“Therefore, being accepted into TernoCon is a significant opportunity. It offers not just a platform, but also the chance to be guided, to refine our skills by practicing the process of designing with a strong creative inspiration. This experience can elevate their career (and sustaining mine) as designers, shaping their approach and artistic identity for the long term,” Tan-Gan commented. “My mentees are all incredibly talented, each possessing a distinct sense of aesthetics from the outset. They are adaptable, spontaneous and open to exploration in their creative approach.”

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