In a thought-provoking piece for Business of Fashion, Kenneth P. Pucker, a professor of practice at Tufts University’s Fletcher School, argues that former President Donald Trump’s new tariff strategy may do little to dent fast fashion’s momentum—but could end up devastating the already fragile progress being made in sustainable fashion.

Pucker, a former COO at Timberland and longtime advocate for business sustainability, outlines how the fashion industry—already struggling with shrinking budgets for ESG initiatives—is now bracing for further setbacks as companies scramble to respond to Trump’s sweeping import duties. While some hopeful voices have suggested that the higher prices might finally curb consumer overconsumption, Pucker counters that the reality is more grim.

“Tariffs will further constrain resources and challenge commitments aimed at sustainability,” Pucker writes, emphasizing that the deeper economic pressure is likely to accelerate cutbacks to already understaffed and underfunded sustainability programs.

Sustainability on the chopping block

While Trump's surprise announcement of a 90-day pause on the steepest new tariffs helped calm markets briefly, a 10% base import fee and a massive 125% duty on goods from China remain in effect. For fashion companies dependent on Asian manufacturing, this spells a squeeze on margins—and likely, a race to the bottom in supply chain ethics.

Pucker warns that history is repeating itself. Much like the post-pandemic “green reset” that never truly materialized, the tariff shock may offer temporary hope for slower consumption and secondhand market gains. But if previous disruption is any guide, fashion’s profit-first model will trump sustainability ambitions once again.

From retreat to regression

The article notes that sustainability momentum in fashion was already fading even before the tariffs. Major brands, despite lofty pledges like those in The Fashion Pact, are falling behind on emissions goals. Many have trimmed or eliminated sustainability teams entirely. When Nike restructured last year, it laid off many of its top sustainability executives.

Now, as tariff-driven financial pressures mount, Pucker believes brands will likely retreat even further—cutting programs, squeezing suppliers, and leaving sustainability professionals burned out and unsupported.

“In the end,” Pucker concludes, “until the structure and rules of the system change, fashion’s sustainability teams and results will continue to suffer.”