Christmas morn craving

On Christmas morn, with the twinkling lights still glowing faintly from the marathon of Noche Buena celebrations, I found myself craving tuyo — yes, the salty dried fish Filipinos love. Forget the glazed ham, the queso de bola, and the lechon that hogged (pun intended) last night’s spotlight. My soul yearned for something unapologetically simple yet profound.

The craving was not born out of rebellion against the ostentatious feast; no, it was more primal than that. Tuyo, that humble culinary relic of our seafaring ancestors, whispered to me like an old friend beckoning me back to my roots. There I was, my taste buds jolted awake from a sugar-and-fat-induced coma, demanding a hit of that salty, umami goodness.

Now, for the uninitiated, tuyo is no ordinary fish. It’s dried under the blazing tropical sun until every drop of moisture is banished, leaving behind a mummified marvel of concentrated flavor. It’s a testament to Filipino ingenuity and frugality — turning a small, bony fish into something so culturally significant, it can rival any French delicacy. Think of it as the jerky of the sea, but far saltier and more fragrant, or as some detractors would say, “odiferous.” But they just don’t get it.

So, there I was, rummaging through the fridge like a midnight pirate in search of gold. And lo and behold, wrapped in wax paper and tucked behind a battalion of leftover spaghetti, there it was — a stash of tuyo. I nearly wept. The tuyo looked back at me, glinting under the pale refrigerator light like a sun-dried deity ready to deliver salvation.

Preparing tuyo is a ritual. First, I had to fry it. Ah, the frying of tuyo — an act that turns kitchens into battlegrounds. The unmistakable aroma, which some affectionately call “heavenly” and others derogatorily label as “pungent,” seeps into every crevice of your home. It announces to neighbors three blocks away that someone has decided to embrace their Filipino-ness in the most aromatic way possible. For me, it’s the smell of nostalgia, of lazy mornings in the province, of community and camaraderie.

As the tuyo sizzled in the pan, I prepared its faithful companions: garlic rice, sunny side-up eggs, and a sawsawan (dipping sauce) of vinegar with crushed garlic and chili. If you’re going to eat tuyo, you’ve got to commit fully. None of this half-hearted pairing nonsense; it’s a full-on symphony of bold flavors or nothing at all.

Finally, the moment arrived. I sat down with my humble plate, a stark contrast to last night’s buffet spread. But in that moment, the simplicity of the tuyo outshone every indulgent dish that had graced our holiday table. I broke the tuyo into bite-size pieces, drizzled a bit of vinegar over it, and paired it with a spoonful of garlicky rice. The first bite was electric. The saltiness of the fish, the tang of the vinegar, the richness of the egg yolk, and the comforting starchiness of the rice came together like a choir singing Hallelujah.

In the glow of Christmas morning, as carols played softly in the background and the world felt a little more forgiving, I realized something profound: tuyo isn’t just food. It’s a statement. It’s a celebration of our heritage, a nod to simpler times, and a reminder that sometimes, the most unassuming things in life bring the greatest joy. It’s also a flex of our Filipino identity, unapologetically stinking up kitchens and delighting palates in one fell swoop.

By the time I finished my meal, the craving was sated, my soul nourished. The tuyo had done its job. I leaned back in my chair, content and contemplative. The world outside still glittered with holiday cheer, but my world — smelling faintly of fried fish — felt even brighter.

So here’s to tuyo: the unsung hero of Christmas mornings and the great equalizer of taste buds. May it continue to grace our tables and remind us of where we come from — in all its salty, smelly, glorious splendor.

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