Walking the River City
Pack walking shoes and charge your smartwatch, because sunny Brisbane will have you walking – and walking some more – to discover the city’s gems.
Daily TribunePack walking shoes and charge your smartwatch, because sunny Brisbane will have you walking – and walking some more – to discover the city’s gems.
Brisbane Cityscape
PHOTOGRAPHS BY TRINA BOUTAIN FOR THE DAILY TRIBUNE
Spree with Me hero.
James and Antler
locally caught lobsters, prawns and oysters.
Tangalooma
AGNES
Streets beach
Located in the north of Australia, Brisbane is fast becoming a travel destination for many people, and not just a stopover on the way to Sunshine Coast or Sydney and Melbourne. It’s easy to see why. Thanks to its subtropical climate, the New World City has developed an attractive al fresco culture. And it’s not all forest hikes and river cruises, too (although there’s plenty of those), instead they’ve embraced their rolling landscape, building sprawling sidewalks and footpaths, lush parks and colorful laneways. They even built a beach right smack in the middle of the city.
Hailed as one of the most livable cities in the world, Brisbane boasts numerous award-winning restaurants, bars, museums and galleries to visit, and enough natural wonders to last a lifetime. All of that and you can wear your tsinelas — thongs to Aussies — pretty much anywhere.
Here, we give you a local-approved guide for your next visit to the land down under.
Where to shop
Frequent traveler and eventologist Tim Yap advised our group that when it came to traveling, Filipinos need to sate their need for shopping early. Think about it — a mall or, better yet, a day of outlet shopping is a must in every Filipino’s itinerary. In Brisbane, retail therapy is a surefire way to hit your daily 10,000-step goal. First stop, of course, is the Queen Street Mall, Brisbane’s large pedestrian (read, open-air) mall that houses six shopping centers. The area usually gets busy during the afternoon rush hour and most shops close around 5 p.m., so it’s best to start early.
Global designer labels such as Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga, Tiffany & Co. and Bvlgari can be found in Queens Plaza alongside homegrown ones Zimmerman, Aje and beauty center Mecca Cosmetica. For more luxury shopping, head to nearby Edward Street, which houses Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and more. High street brands such as H&M and Uniqlo can be found at 170 Queen Street, along with Japan’s Daiso, while Zara can be found in nearby Brisbane Arcade. Foodies looking for their fix of triple cream cheeses, meat pies and Tim Tams can head to Coles in Uptown Mall and Woolworth’s in MacArthur Central.
For those who want a more curated experience involving champagne, it’s highly recommended to try Spree With Me, a unique shopping and personal styling tour. The brainchild of Imogene Whittle, Spree With Me offers a plethora of services, including color analysis and professional styling.
We met Imogene and her colleague Celia, at James Street, a warren of designer and indie labels, hip bars and small galleries. They took us on a condensed version of their tour, a mere four hours instead of the whole-day affair that includes transfer services.
For the men, we stopped at Calexico Man and P Johnson, both offering luxury menswear, suited for Filipino weather. Think lots of fine linen, silky kits and cotton and statement sunnies. At that time, P Johnson was also offering clothes for women, and it’s a definite stop for fans of refined, minimalist fashion. For their summer season, they offered elegant silk organza dresses in muted, soft blue and green shades, crisp white cotton separates, and knit coords that exude an easy kind of elegance James Street’s habitués have perfected.
The same tailored look via vests, sundresses and silk pajamas, but for a fraction of the price, continues with Dissh, a popular Aussie brand. On the other side of the spectrum is Aje, which is all colorful, cheerful prints and butterfly sleeves. The highlight of our tour was a visit to Gail Sorronda, a Filipino-Australian designer who Karl Lagerfeld once described as one to watch. Her 20-year-old label is known for its fine construction and use of premium fabrics to create romantic clothing with a touch of goth. There are rosettes, frills, lace and pleats galore in black and white. It’s a look not normally associated with Brisbane’s penchant for resort-ready fashion, but works beautifully.
Another advantage of taking Spree With Me is the ability to reserve pieces and try on pre-selected pieces upon arrival. While it is a premium service, it is well worth it for those looking to up their style game or discover Aussie brands.
Where to eat
Food is second to none for Filipinos and Brisbane is full of exciting restaurants and a variety of cuisines. Outdoorsy and health-conscious, Brisbanites take pride in their excellent produce, resulting in fun and inventive vegetable dishes that are so good they can tempt even the most dedicated carnivore. Having said that, it’s worth noting that when you’re in Australia, steaks and seafood are an absolute must.
Seafood lovers will have a ball in Brisbane. Must-try food include Moreton Bay bugs or pitik-pitik as they’re known in the Philippines, and all manner of crustacean really — locally caught lobsters, prawns, oysters; they’re not only widely available, but also prepared in a variety of ways. In Vista Bay Patio in Tangalooma Island Resort, they are perched on a seafood tower, their flesh sweet and briny, sliding easily off of their shells; at the Stanley Restaurant in scenic Howard Smith Wharves, which you should reach by riding a City Cat on the Brisbane River to catch the sunset and twinkling city lights, they are served with Cantonese flair via fried rolls, dim sum and tossed in a piquant chili sauce.
It’s hard to eat bad in Brisbane, as the city is filled with talented cooks and chefs. One of the brightest stars of the dining scene is Agnes, found off of bustling Fortitude Valley. Helmed by Chef Ben Williamson, Agnes is quiet and unassuming from the outside, but is quite the show inside, no doubt buoyed by the heat and activity emanating from the large open-fire kitchen. A lot has been said and written about Agnes, and it fully lives up to the hype. Our hungry group of six feasted on rock oysters, whipped bottarga toast, yellowfin tuna, babi guling and — the plats de résistance — Long fed Angus ribeye and a divine Kiwami Wagyu short loin 9+, both perfectly charred on the outside and cooked to a perfect medium rare. For dessert, the kitchen sent over a charred pineapple, topped with a heavenly white chocolate cream sauce — perfectly “not too sweet” for Asian palates.
Another foodie highlight is Hellenika, the trendy Greek restaurant found in the pool deck of The Calile Hotel. In contrast to Agnes, Hellenika is light-filled, all pastel-colored and blond wood. Guests may choose from traditional to more modern takes on Greek food. Favorites like spanakopita, veal dolmades and moussaka were all terrific. One can choose to share large plates with a group or enjoy a personal set menu. Otherwise, sit back, sip on a Malbec, and enjoy the parade of well-dressed diners and the lissome waitstaff while the sun sets on the horizon.
Like in Sydney and Melbourne, Brisbane has a thriving coffee community. To get your caffeine fix, hit popular spots such as James and Antler on James Street, known for their viral canned frappes (which uses soft serve ice cream) and large breakfast sandwiches; Frankie & George on George Street for a flat white and breakfast burgers served with barbecue sauce; Sprout Artisan Bakery, which locals say is one of the top wood-fire bakeries in the city, for croissants, meat pies and sourdough sandwiches.
What to do
Fit City Tours stays true to Brisbane’s outdoorsy nature. There are many options, including one that involves doughnuts and another that requires jogging. Ours was an all-day walking affair that took us from King George Square, to Fish Lane, The Old Windmill and other historic places in the city, We logged more than 10,000 steps on the tour alone and ended atop The Star Brisbane, the newly opened casino with a rooftop deck that boasts 360-views of the city and glass floors, toasting to our health with local hard cider and spritzes.
A visit to the South Bank neighborhood, which houses the Brisbane Performance Arts Centre, the aforementioned man-made beach, and the popular Queensland Art Gallery and the Gallery of Modern Art. Free of charge, the museums house paintings from Picasso and Degas alongside works of homegrown artists such as Vida Lahey and Richard Godfrey Rivers. They keep a rotation of modern art from all over the world, but pay particular close attention to local and regional artists.
Both museums are preparing for the Asia Pacific Triennial, happening on 30 November and running until 27 April 2025. One of the participants is Kikik Kollektive, an Iloilo-based artist group that flew in to create a large-scale mural. The massive work, entitled “Tul-an san aton kamal-aman” (Bones of our elders) is an homage to indigenous Panay culture, featuring local figures and symbols. Our group was lucky to visit the collective in their sun-dappled workroom, on the verge of finishing their piece. Some even got to participate in the painting.
At night, head straight to Eat Street Northshore, a bustling and vibrant property with over 180 restaurants and bars. There’s live music from DJs and bands to dance and sing along to, fairground games, and roaming dinosaurs (yes, you read that right) ready to greet you a happy “unbirthday” if you catch their eye. The combination of a party-like atmosphere and multicultural food and drink offerings is so quintessentially Aussie that it’s no wonder it’s always packed.
What would a visit to Australia be without seeing some of the native wildlife? Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, the largest sanctuary for the endangered animal, is a mere 20-minute drive from the city. You’ll know you’ve arrived as soon as the scent of eucalyptus leaves, the koalas’ food, hits you. On foot, you can pet and feed the adorable koalas, as well as catch colorful lorikeets, kangaroos roaming freely, and wombats, just to name a few. The sanctuary, which is a must for those traveling with children, is home to over 100 koalas and over 75 species of native animals.
For more the more adventurous, there’s Tangalooma Island Resort, a 75-minute ferry ride. Once there, you can snorkel the nearby wrecks, take a helicopter tour of the island, and feed the dolphins at dusk. A word for those used to Boracay’s warm waters — Tangalooma Island’s waters varies from 21 to 26°C, so a wetsuit is a must. While you’re in the island, say “hi” to Chef Neil at Vista Bay Patio. With Filipinos making up the fifth largest migrant community or nearly 1.2 percent of Australia’s general population, Chef Neil is just one of the many familiar faces you’re bound to run into in Brisbane.
Oenophiles looking to sample the region’s wine, there’s Ocean View Estate, found in the gorgeous Moreton Bay Region. The estate creates many easy-to-drink wines, including sweet fortified ones, and also offers a light gourmet lunch featuring organic produce grown in their 100-acre estate. On a sunny day, walking through the vineyards, you may even catch sight of horses and llamas roaming the property.
Where to stay
There’s a variety of places to stay in Brisbane, but if you’re looking to do so in style, then the W Hotel is the way to go. Fans of the “Whenever, Whatever” service will look forward to seeing familiar perks, including fantastic city views, a fully stocked bar and an open-air breakfast area that lets you enjoy your coffee and avo toast in the sunshine. For those looking to stay in a more central place, especially if you’re planning to party in Fortitude Valley, there’s Hotel X, a boutique property that boasts the perennially booked Iris Rooftop Bar & Restaurant.
How to get there
Fun fact: during the flight, we found out that Qantas stands for Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services Limited. The Flying Kangaroo, Australia’s flagship carrier, has resumed its direct flights to Brisbane, flying up to four times a week. Second fun fact: one of the actors in the inflight safety video is a Filipino, Nelson and he’s the main man at the door of the First Class Lounge in Sydney. He can be seen driving a Corvette in the film.
The flight from Manila to Brisbane takes off at 2:40 a.m., a fact that may ordinarily give many would-be travelers pause. But for traffic-weary Manileños, it could actually be a plus. The off-off peak time means the chances of getting stuck in one of the city’s traffic jams is slight to nil. Plus, the roughly 7.5-hour flight time means you could either sleep the way there or watch three of Hugh Jackman’s movies before landing in Brisbane at noon, just in time for most hotel check-ins. If you’re leaning towards the latter, you’ll be pleased to know that the actor has his own movie category in the inflight services. Slip into Qantas’ super comfortable pajamas (one of the perks of flying business in their A330 plane) and get ready to chill.
With more Filipinos visiting Australia, whether for holidays or to visit family and friends, the airline expects to add more flights in the future. That certainly bodes well for the travelers looking to explore more the land down under, starting with the River City.
