Each year, on the 2nd of November, All Souls’ Day, cemeteries all over the Philippines are transformed into noisy agoras, dotted with makeshift bazaars and vendors hawking everything from candles to chicharon, or pig skin cracklings. It’s a curious juxtaposition of the sacred and the profane, a reminder that life and death are inextricably linked.

While cops confiscate alcoholic drinks and boomboxes, as well as the occasional deadly weapon, the living communes with the dead not just to mourn (for the recently departed) or to remember, but also to make merry. Yes, make merry, since after remembering the dead comes the happiest season of the year for Filipinos—Christmas.

Candles are lit, flowers are offered, and family members gather to swap stories of those whose names have been chiseled in lapidas, or tombstones. One might venture to call it a Mardi Gras if only for the frenzied activities connected to it, and we’re not even referring to whitewashing tombs beforehand while lost in the music playing on the mandatory headsets.

We Filipinos have such unique ways of remembering the dead, arising from religious teachings—of praying for those souls in purgatory—but also from folkloric practices that may be traced back to pagan days, like leaving food at gravesites, echoing the ancient practice of appeasing spirits.

Those with money to burn build elaborate tombs, including some that look like mini-mansions, going as far as to have their private restrooms, because as the living remember the dead, they must also take care of their bodily needs.

‘Undas’ is that time of year when we are reminded that death, for all its finality, can be a source of life, or at least a newfound appreciation for it. It’s a time reserved to remember what truly matters. Okay, sometimes, it’s just a good excuse to eat and drink that beer stowed at the bottom of the cooler and ice hidden by soft drink bottles and Zesto juice packs.

Beyond the spiritual significance, All Souls’ Day also serves as a social occasion. Families and friends strengthen bonds, create new memories, and reinforce the importance of togetherness. The festive atmosphere can sometimes overshadow the somber nature of the occasion, but it ultimately contributes to the unique character of the Filipino celebration.

As with any tradition, All Souls’ Day is not without its challenges, as in recent years, there has been a growing concern about the commercialization of the holiday, with businesses capitalizing on the occasion to pad profits from overpriced flowers, for example.

This can sometimes detract from the spiritual significance of the day and lead to a superficial celebration. But who are we to begrudge merchants for making money on what is, after all, a single-day event? Christmas—now, we are talking about the real commercialization of a celebration not just of life or death but of our salvation.

Indeed, the increasing urbanization and migration of Filipinos have led to changes in traditional practices. Many people now choose to visit cemeteries less frequently or even opt for online memorials. While these changes may be inevitable, it’s important to preserve the core values of All Souls’ Day and adapt the traditions to suit the changing times. In visiting cemeteries, it’s not surprising anymore to see graves that have been neglected, covered in shrubs or, worse, trash.

Like many things in life, All Souls' Day entails walking a tightrope between memory and marketing, mourning and merriment. It’s a patchwork of prayers and parties stitched together by people who refuse to keep the dead in the dark. There’s always room for a drink, a ghost story, and a reminder that even when life is a mess, there’s meaning to be found in the rituals that keep us waltzing with the dead.