From Laguna’s farms to your table

For many Manileños, Laguna is a favorite destination for many different reasons. Many head off to Liliw for their tsinelas, while many go to San Pablo for beautiful stoneware and pottery. During a trip over pre-pandemic, it was interesting to learn about the rich food heritage of the province, grown from the wealth of local produce from the area. Celebrating this bounty is the recent “Sa Pantalan: Biyaheng Pangkatagalugan,” a food and heritage festival held annually in Sta. Cruz, Laguna.

Sa Pantalan is the brainchild of siblings Theodore “Day” Salonga, his sister Gel Salonga-Datu and her husband Dino Datu. All professional chefs, they are the team behind the hugely popular Ted’s Diner, a little coffee shop in Sta. Cruz, Laguna, from where they serve some of the best cakes and pastries in town. Their bibingka cheesecake and strawberry shortcake have fans willingly driving two hours over for a slice! Inspired by the breadth and depth of the culinary heritage of the region, and the work of local artisans, they began mounting this festival to draw more attention to it. And they had the perfect venue – Ted’s Warehouse, right behind the coffee shop.

Now on its fourth year, the cultural festival brings together artists, skilled craftsmen, farmers, backyard food enterprises from all over Laguna under one roof. What a diverse selection, too!

Local purveyor Sierrezza specialized in raw honey, and also fruit chewies dehydrated sans any added sugar or oil. Kakaw Galleon displayed chocolate truffles that could rival premium chocolatiers, including their own take on the viral Dubai chocolate bar. Pure calamansi powder from the Samahan Ng Organikong Laguna (SOIL) is a must for citrus lovers, but stocks ran out quite quickly.

A crowd favorite was Dream Nature Farm’s fresh ricotta. On the produce side, there were juicy watermelons and dragon fruit, eggplant, tomatoes and even some fiery Carolina reaper chilis. Local artists, and designers even had their wares on display, plus a live session of piña being embroidered on site. On the way out, there are also cakes, pastries and bottled sauces from the Ted’s Diner booth that can’t be missed.

As with any food festival, there is no keeping the foodies away. Shopping and eating their way through “Sa Pantalan…” were the likes of chef and cooking show host Sandy Daza, food expert and author Ige Ramos (who tried his hand at a bit of cultural dance), Chef Myke Tatung and restaurateur Sandee Masigan.

Now, all that shopping does leave one famished. All the food tasting at almost every stall can whet the appetite. Chef Day was ready over at Aurora Filipino Cuisine, the Filipino restaurant named after his and Chef Gel’s mom, with a feast inspired by fish and seafood sourced from Laguna de Bay. Since it was a hot day, he had refreshments waiting at the table – a nice icy Tamarindo, and a naughty shot of Lambacello (a smooth concoction of Lambanog from Liliw, Laguna infused with local lemon).

Opening the meal was a delightful trio of small bites, of which the Cachuela Chawanmushi was a standout, with salty notes from the carp roe offset by a smooth ginger custard soup. The main course arrived by way of tampipi. Inside it dishes that, one could say, covered all major food groups – Kulawo Salad smoky from the grilled eggplant, sweet and fresh Pansit Buko, Tinagang Kanduli rich with traditional gata flavors and, lastly, Crispy Itik with Blue Rice. The Santol Sambal served with it had the entire table asking for more. Undoubtedly, the star of the meal was the Pili and Sta. Maria Coffee Cream Sans Rival paired with Kesong Puti Ice Cream. Each spoonful was a balanced mix of salty, savory and sweet. The meal truly showcased what Chef Day can do with a bounty of local ingredients, inspired by the province he calls home.

With bags of vegetables, sauces, honey, cheese and chocolate already in hand, it is tempting to give the fair another go around. In case there might be anything else to find. The takeaway from each encounter with the merchants and artisans is one of pride in the fruits of the land and the work of their hands.

Sa Pantalan’s appeal is in its commitment to taking its patrons on Biyaheng Pangkatalugan, so they can experience firsthand – through sight, scents, taste and touch – the rich cultural heritage of Laguna. For Chefs Gel, Day and Dino, who have grown up in, love and call the place home, their invitation is for “…all to come, eat, see and experience Laguna.”