Menswear is having a style high moment in this age of conscious fashion. While quiet luxury and sustainability play a game of tug-of-war under the spotlight, clothing for men is currently braving the forefront of change.

Iconic designer Rajo Laurel is reinventing his wheel with Rajoman — an under-the-radar brand known to those who know, insiders and purveyors of Philippine fashion. In an industry where each designer is trying to carve out their own space, Rajo has been consistently and relevantly anchored in the design landscape that matters.

NEW.NOW.NEXT interviews the designer on what’s now with RAJOMAN.

What’s the concept behind the premiere collection and why?

The collection is somewhat of an autobiography of my life. It is based on my memories of the men I admire and love. These men had a direct impact in the formation of my life and my aesthetic.  It’s a recollection on my own journey as to why I chose this path or creativity.  It is an essay on my thoughts on what it is to truly be a man today. 

I have never done a full menswear fashion show and a full menswear collection, and when I was invited to do the show, I wanted to challenge myself and explore something new. I believe that it is always healthy to try something new and, in a way, scare and challenge oneself as this makes one feel alive.  

What’s the story all about? The collection is loosely titled “Pieces of Me.”  I called it such because it is perhaps one of my most personal shows.

My own primary discipline has always been womenswear. The process is usually a projection on my ideas. I literally mold my ideas around the woman. This time, the process began from within. Since I was able to wear each piece in the collection, I started to react in a manner more holistically asking questions as to how (each piece made) me feel. This was a different trajectory for me as a designer. How many pieces in the collection?  At the moment we have prepared around 50 pieces, but we are still editing this at the moment. Realistically, it will be around 42 pieces.

What colors/palette did you use? What fabrics?

The collection colors were inspired by my own wardrobe. So, I concentrated on black, bone, white, beige, navy and charcoal grey.  Since these are what I actually wear myself, that palette resonated with me. The fabrics are, for me, what make this collection special as I had some fabrics specially woven for the show.  We will see some beautiful raw, heavy linens and some pineapple material with high texture. I also used some traditional cottons and English lightweight wools and heavy cotton twills.  I then experimented with heavy taffetas, as well as weaves using raffia. I also ventured into using materials not associated with menswear like silk tulle, silk organdie, silk satin and washed silks. I really had a great time experimenting on the fabrics as most fall differently on the male form.