Reinventing the man

Menswear is having a style high moment in this age of conscious fashion. While quiet luxury and sustainability play a game of tug-of-war under the spotlight, clothing for men is currently braving the forefront of change.

Iconic designer Rajo Laurel is reinventing his wheel with Rajoman — an under-the-radar brand known to those who know, insiders and purveyors of Philippine fashion. In an industry where each designer is trying to carve out their own space, Rajo has been consistently and relevantly anchored in the design landscape that matters.

NEW.NOW.NEXT interviews the designer on what’s now with RAJOMAN.

What’s the concept behind the premiere collection and why?

The collection is somewhat of an autobiography of my life. It is based on my memories of the men I admire and love. These men had a direct impact in the formation of my life and my aesthetic.  It’s a recollection on my own journey as to why I chose this path or creativity.  It is an essay on my thoughts on what it is to truly be a man today. 

I have never done a full menswear fashion show and a full menswear collection, and when I was invited to do the show, I wanted to challenge myself and explore something new. I believe that it is always healthy to try something new and, in a way, scare and challenge oneself as this makes one feel alive.  

What’s the story all about? The collection is loosely titled “Pieces of Me.”  I called it such because it is perhaps one of my most personal shows.

My own primary discipline has always been womenswear. The process is usually a projection on my ideas. I literally mold my ideas around the woman. This time, the process began from within. Since I was able to wear each piece in the collection, I started to react in a manner more holistically asking questions as to how (each piece made) me feel. This was a different trajectory for me as a designer. How many pieces in the collection?  At the moment we have prepared around 50 pieces, but we are still editing this at the moment. Realistically, it will be around 42 pieces.

What colors/palette did you use? What fabrics?

The collection colors were inspired by my own wardrobe. So, I concentrated on black, bone, white, beige, navy and charcoal grey.  Since these are what I actually wear myself, that palette resonated with me. The fabrics are, for me, what make this collection special as I had some fabrics specially woven for the show.  We will see some beautiful raw, heavy linens and some pineapple material with high texture. I also used some traditional cottons and English lightweight wools and heavy cotton twills.  I then experimented with heavy taffetas, as well as weaves using raffia. I also ventured into using materials not associated with menswear like silk tulle, silk organdie, silk satin and washed silks. I really had a great time experimenting on the fabrics as most fall differently on the male form.

How long did it take you to make the collection? What is the statement behind your narrative?

I started the collection last February/March so you can say I have been ruminating on this for nine months. OMG. It’s like I am having a baby. LOL! I don’t think I intended to create a statement. That was not my intention. I wanted to just do something new and special — not just for my clients, but also for myself. If a narrative does even come from this collection, it is that it tries to explore and understand gender and the complexities of these by the vocabulary and language that I am most comfortable with — that of clothing and ultimately fashion.  

You’ve been making menswear for some time now.  Is this a reinvention?

It is not a launch. You are correct in stating that I have been designing RAJOMAN for several years now. However, more often this has taken a secondary or a supporting role in my work. This time I am putting a spotlight on this discipline and, yes, perhaps through this exercise I have unintentionally reinvented this.

What is the targeted market for RAJOMAN? What kind of fashion can your audience expect?  

I am hoping that I can introduce my brand to a younger demographic and that I am able to communicate my vision to this audience. I hope that they enjoy the collection. I think through time I leave the “expectation” part open. All I know is that this collection makes me happy, and having gone through the entire process, it felt like a positive cathartic experience — seeing what I do from a different perspective.  

What is the ideal RAJOMAN?

Brave, thoughtful, sensitive, sentimental, romantic and soulful.

Designer menswear has gotten a bit popular in the local retail market today. What is your opinion about it and why?

I love it!  I believe that is one of the reasons I was so interested and inclined to doing this. It is a huge business opportunity and has the potential for business growth. I wanted to have a go at it and see where this will take me and the brand.  

As a celebrated designer whose exemplary success has spanned the decades, how do you define or describe the current “designer” scene?

I think it is very exciting and there are so many unique voices and perspectives that leave me so inspired. There is a true sense of visibility now because everyone is at the same playing field. We are all given the same opportunities and platforms to show and express our work and this always keeps everyone on their toes.

Name three changes about Philippine fashion then and now.  

Social Media, Major international brands and players in the country and International publications giving a spotlight on the local fashion scene on a true global platform.  

What’s the best advice you can give today to an aspiring fashion designer who wants to enter the business of fashion?

Learn how to make clothes and focus on the craft. Don’t be in a hurry and enjoy every minute of it all. Time is fleeting, but the memories one creates is forever. Be fearless and don’t be afraid to make mistakes; these will, in turn, become the most valuable lessons you will ever have. Make as much friends as you possibly can as fashion is about fostering a community.  Fashion does not exist in a vacuum — you need others to make it alive and healthy.  

The collection will be available in all our stores at THE HOUSE OF LAUREL and also at THE RAJO STORE located at the Power Plant Mall and Shangri-La Mall. However, some of the pieces from the collection will be available to order — www.rajolaurel.com has the details.