
At Discovery Primea's Flame Restaurant, Colombian guest chef Alex Nessim walked members of the press through the preparation of two classic meriendas (snacks) from his country, Patacones con Ceviche (marinated shrimp on a deep-fried plantain) and Encocado de Cangrejo (crab cooked in coconut milk with herbs and spices). This short presentation and demo came ahead of the 26 September Flavors of Colombia dinner event at Flame.
While he mixed ceviche ingredients in a bowl or showed us how to knead arepa dough (think of a cross between a corn tortilla and Indian butter naan), he emphasized how these snacks were nothing fancy in Colombia; they were street food that students could afford or that office workers could bring home for a convenient dinner.
The ceviche used ketchup and mayonnaise, after all.
The end result was as far from pedestrian as it was familiar to Pinoy tastebuds. The crab was creamy and warming like a homecooked curry or Bicol express. The ceviche was that perfect combination of sweet, salty, and slightly tangy that may remind a Filipino of his preferred way to cook spaghetti, on top of tasting similar to our own kinilaw.
Arepas and encocadas can seem mysterious in Manila; we're more likely to be acquainted with Argentinian or Brazilian cuisine. But Discovery Primea, with its Colombian general manager David Pardo de Ayala, is trying its best to change that.
This is Flame Restaurant's third edition of Flavors of Colombia, with each year heralding a new guest chef from the country. This year, Nessim has curated a tasing menu for guests that includes:
• Pulpo del Pacífico – Shizugawa octopus confit with annatto oil and sourdough bread
• Tartar de Gambas – Lightly-cooked shrimp with cassava textures and tamarind “aguachile”
• Pescado a la Parrilla – Josper-grilled barramundi with rooftop herb butter
• Pato al Jerez – Pan-roasted duck magret with white chocolate brioche and seared foie gras
• Crema de Café – Colombian coffee crème brûlée
Chef Nessim, who owns Cali-based restaurants Pica and Selfish Bar, brings with him an advocacy of sustainable fishing practices to go with his talent for showcasing Colombian Pacific cuisine with a contemporary twist.
In 2015, he founded Pescando Pacifico, a collaborative project promoting eco-friendly fishing practices while preserving the unique culinary heritage of the region.
Nessim cited examples of sustainable fishing: first, fisherfolk who work with him don't use mechanical equipment that runs on fuel; they stick to traditional methods. Likewise, In the mangroves of Colombia, the women who collect black-shelled ark clams are careful not to harvest too many, allowing these "pianguas" to reproduce and replenish.
Flavors of Colombia ticks a lot of boxes for the conscientious foodie in 2024: it features an underappreciated (at least in the Philippines) cuisine, the tasting menu promises a unique experience with touches of the familiar like annatto, casava, and tamarind, and the guest chef has worked for years to leave a mark on the world aside from what he brings to your table.
The 26 September dinner is priced at PHP 4,800++ per person, with an optional PHP 2,000++ wine pairing.
Reservations are recommended. Guests may book their tables at Flame by calling +63 2 7955 8888 or emailing primea.restaurants@discovery.com.ph.