China Blue enchants Manila once more

The early morning phone message ended with an enticing invitation — to dine at the country’s premiere Chinese restaurant, China Blue at Conrad Hotel Manila, featuring the culinary incantation crafted and curated by the Hong Kong-based celebrity chef Jereme Leung. So, would you send your regrets?

Four dear friends and tried-and-tested travelling buddies gathered at the designated moment and space. We were graciously welcomed by the venue’s woman-that-matters Lady Jane, who immediately whisked us to a cozy private room.

Skirting by some empty tables and chairs, we instinctively wondered whether us seniors were simply just having a much-too-early a dinner. Hmmm...

Gladly seated around a huge round table, not too often seen in massive banquet halls, it offered ample elbow room, yet we could still capture the whispers of each other without any effort. We soon noticed the always-versatile lazy Susan gapingly missing. But fret not. An efficient-looking waiter stood at attention, with a ready warm smile. His entire body language seemed to scream “At your service!”

Thrilled to settle down, we discreetly reviewed the ceramic receptable of boiled peanuts, veggie flakes, and a house sauce. On one side were the Eastern chopsticks, Western silver cutlery, together with the piping hot, hot tea in a dainty porcelain cup. Naturally, we had requested for a Coca Cola — almost an irresistible drink with Chinese food. Did I succumb? Got me there.

However, we were more than ready — in the saddle, as they say — all set for the absolutely experiential experience. And the show rolled in!

Guided by a personalized menu on my left, for the appetizer, a Marinated Sweet Plum Drunken King Prawn proudly laid across the plate, with its detached head nearby. Beside it was a too-nice-to-touch, more-so-to-eat, a Crispy Puff Roll with marinated bits of crab meat with avocado. A piece of art. We were fascinated by its presentation, and now for the taste — magical!

The soup came in two installments. Artistically arranged in a shallow bowl, kept warm by a candle underneath, were the Double Boiled Sturgeon Tendon — I repeat, sturgeon tendon — and Dry Sea Conch with Morel Mushrooms. Without any delay, the attentive server carefully poured the Kung Fu Soup — a pleasant reassuring revelation.

What followed next were three main courses — mind you, not three to choose from.

First, the Wasabi Beef Cheek Wagyu. Yes, you read that right — beef cheek wagyu. It was generously sprinkled with bits of pistachio nuts, supplemented by slices of green bamboo shoots. With its balanced flavor and tender texture, it was a genuine winner for meat lovers, no doubt.

It was followed — I would have preferred the other way around — by a chunk of a Roasted Black Cod. I must admit, it was excellent down to the last slice. The torch ginger flower, pomelo and gravy sauce — a masterpiece simply impossible to deconstruct, was a thrill of carnival rides all throughout.

Braised Yin Yang Rice — orza rice and Tibet rock grain — was the last of the main courses. Remember the ritual of having rice by the end of the meal? Well, there you are. But not so fast!

It had dry scallops — truly a favorite — dry fish maw, which are swim bladders of large fish and is considered a Chinese delicacy, and an oyster ginger taste.

To cap off the evening’s gastronomical journey was the much-awaited dessert — Chocolate Egg Coconut Mousse with Mango Puree that looked more like an egg yolk, absolutely an object d’art and a climactic high.

I would be amiss if I did not mention all throughout dinner, we had visits from the resident chef who shared some educational insights on every dish. Meanwhile, Lady Jane continuously check in us. And of course, let’s once again recognize the now-you-see-him, now-you-don’t server, always in an anticipatory mode, but with utmost respect for our privacy.

On our way out, we noticed the entire restaurant was full — all with reservations, no walk-ins. We missed the usual chaotic banter in Chinese restaurants, where one tries to outdo the other — as the guests were all focused on what was before them.

Oh yes, we seniors do eat our dinners much too early!